Author Topic: Pouring a slab  (Read 5589 times)

Offline m_fumich

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Pouring a slab
« on: August 17, 2020, 06:54:48 PM »
I’ll be pouring a small slab in the next few weeks. The slab will be the equivalent of a home garage floor. Is 4” adequate? If I plan to install a 2 post lift later, do I just determine where it will be placed and pour deeper footings for the posts?


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Offline highland512

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Re: Pouring a slab
« Reply #1 on: August 18, 2020, 07:52:30 AM »
I would go no less than 6" for a garage slab.

Offline TexasT

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Re: Pouring a slab
« Reply #2 on: August 19, 2020, 02:51:24 PM »
I’ll be pouring a small slab in the next few weeks. The slab will be the equivalent of a home garage floor. Is 4” adequate? If I plan to install a 2 post lift later, do I just determine where it will be placed and pour deeper footings for the posts?


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Do some diligence and see what some of the lift mfg require before planning a pour that thin.

Even a 6" slab is kinda thin for a two post imo but I'm not an engineer. Are you doing post tension or tied rebar? Good size footers and cross beams at least into the frost line?
Rich

Offline m_fumich

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Pouring a slab
« Reply #3 on: August 19, 2020, 02:57:41 PM »
Do some diligence and see what some of the lift mfg require before planning a pour that thin.

Even a 6" slab is kinda thin for a two post imo but I'm not an engineer. Are you doing post tension or tied rebar? Good size footers and cross beams at least into the frost line?

I didn’t mean to suggest I’d be pouring 4” concrete to support the lift. Where ever the posts for the lift will be anchored, I’ll dig a 12” hole about 3’ deep although I know that’s FAR more than would be needed. I’m more concerned about the shop  floor overall as a work surface. Aside from the two post lift, it will be no different than the garage floor attached to a house. And we have no frost line here if that matters.


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Offline highland512

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Re: Pouring a slab
« Reply #4 on: August 19, 2020, 04:11:54 PM »
How many times are home designers worried about any loads heavier than couch? I wouldn't put 4" slab on grade down for a new house frost line or not,  4" concrete is for patios and sidewalks. A shop for light auto work/hobby work needs 6" minimum. A shop for modern ag equipment or semi trucks I would go 8"-10".

Offline walrus

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Re: Pouring a slab
« Reply #5 on: August 19, 2020, 04:20:26 PM »
Most lift manufacturers want 4 inch floor with no voids, no cracks, no saw cuts within so many inches and 4000 psi crete. 

In Maine I wouldn't do a shop floor at less than 6 inches and #4 rebar 12 inches on center. But thats my experience seeing what happens with flat work in Maine

Offline Heiny57

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Re: Pouring a slab
« Reply #6 on: August 19, 2020, 07:21:22 PM »
Most lift manufacturers want 4 inch floor with no voids, no cracks, no saw cuts within so many inches and 4000 psi crete. 

In Maine I wouldn't do a shop floor at less than 6 inches and #4 rebar 12 inches on center. But thats my experience seeing what happens with flat work in Maine

Walrus, did I see a thread over on channel 3 that involved you treated your shop floor with Diamondhard? I found a densifier/ sealer I am going to use on mine. If you used it what did you think?
MAGA

If you can’t fix it with a hammer, it must be electrical.

Offline muddy

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Re: Pouring a slab
« Reply #7 on: August 19, 2020, 08:15:40 PM »
Most lift manufacturers want 4 inch floor with no voids, no cracks, no saw cuts within so many inches and 4000 psi crete. 

In Maine I wouldn't do a shop floor at less than 6 inches and #4 rebar 12 inches on center. But thats my experience seeing what happens with flat work in Maine
Alot of freezing and thawing up there in the great white

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Offline walrus

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Re: Pouring a slab
« Reply #8 on: August 20, 2020, 03:32:24 AM »
Most lift manufacturers want 4 inch floor with no voids, no cracks, no saw cuts within so many inches and 4000 psi crete. 

In Maine I wouldn't do a shop floor at less than 6 inches and #4 rebar 12 inches on center. But thats my experience seeing what happens with flat work in Maine

Walrus, did I see a thread over on channel 3 that involved you treated your shop floor with Diamondhard? I found a densifier/ sealer I am going to use on mine. If you used it what did you think?
I did use it, I can't really tell what it did.? My slab is great. Its poured on grade, no frost walls, no thickened edges. Vapor barrier, 2 inches foam, no 4 rebar, pex for solar radiant and 4000 psi concrete. If I could ever get it cleaned up from all the crap from work it would look great even after 7 or 8 years of working in there.

Offline Heiny57

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Re: Pouring a slab
« Reply #9 on: August 20, 2020, 08:48:48 AM »
Most lift manufacturers want 4 inch floor with no voids, no cracks, no saw cuts within so many inches and 4000 psi crete. 

In Maine I wouldn't do a shop floor at less than 6 inches and #4 rebar 12 inches on center. But thats my experience seeing what happens with flat work in Maine

Walrus, did I see a thread over on channel 3 that involved you treated your shop floor with Diamondhard? I found a densifier/ sealer I am going to use on mine. If you used it what did you think?
I did use it, I can't really tell what it did.? My slab is great. Its poured on grade, no frost walls, no thickened edges. Vapor barrier, 2 inches foam, no 4 rebar, pex for solar radiant and 4000 psi concrete. If I could ever get it cleaned up from all the crap from work it would look great even after 7 or 8 years of working in there.
Maybe that’s a good thing. Does it bead water? It should anyway.
MAGA

If you can’t fix it with a hammer, it must be electrical.

Offline walrus

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Re: Pouring a slab
« Reply #10 on: August 20, 2020, 06:14:38 PM »
Most lift manufacturers want 4 inch floor with no voids, no cracks, no saw cuts within so many inches and 4000 psi crete. 

In Maine I wouldn't do a shop floor at less than 6 inches and #4 rebar 12 inches on center. But thats my experience seeing what happens with flat work in Maine

Walrus, did I see a thread over on channel 3 that involved you treated your shop floor with Diamondhard? I found a densifier/ sealer I am going to use on mine. If you used it what did you think?
I did use it, I can't really tell what it did.? My slab is great. Its poured on grade, no frost walls, no thickened edges. Vapor barrier, 2 inches foam, no 4 rebar, pex for solar radiant and 4000 psi concrete. If I could ever get it cleaned up from all the crap from work it would look great even after 7 or 8 years of working in there.
Maybe that’s a good thing. Does it bead water? It should anyway.
No on beading water. Its had grease and oil on it and tons of salty water from work truck. I don't think it ever beaded water?

Offline Heiny57

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Re: Pouring a slab
« Reply #11 on: August 23, 2020, 09:24:05 AM »
I shouldn’t have said “bead” water, because it won’t do that but does it slow liquid absorption so spills could be cleaned up easier? Did it minimize dusting? Tractor Supply does it to its new buildings to make maintenance easier.
MAGA

If you can’t fix it with a hammer, it must be electrical.

Offline m_fumich

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Re: Pouring a slab
« Reply #12 on: August 23, 2020, 09:27:00 AM »
I shouldn’t have said “bead” water, because it won’t do that but does it slow liquid absorption so spills could be cleaned up easier? Did it minimize dusting? Tractor Supply does it to its new buildings to make maintenance easier.
How thick of a slab does TSC have for their stores? That would definitely be the upper end of anything I’d consider for a shop floor. I must consider the possibility that a forklift might be used in the shop someday.


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Offline walrus

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Re: Pouring a slab
« Reply #13 on: August 23, 2020, 03:41:16 PM »
I shouldn’t have said “bead” water, because it won’t do that but does it slow liquid absorption so spills could be cleaned up easier? Did it minimize dusting? Tractor Supply does it to its new buildings to make maintenance easier.
No dusting at all.

Offline DeadNutz

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Re: Pouring a slab
« Reply #14 on: August 23, 2020, 04:00:22 PM »
On our shop and aprons we went with 6" minimum with some areas a little thicker. Shop floor was saw cut the next day and that is where the only cracking is in the saw cuts. Three cuts across the width and two down the length on the 30' x 55' slab. It was a monolithic pour as we didn't need stem walls that way. The garage and shop aprons were saw cut across the width in the middle as the water drains down the middle to the end by the garage apron. No cracks in the shop floor or aprons except in the saw cuts after plenty of forklift, tractor and vehicle traffic.