Garage Gazette
General Category => GENERAL DISCUSSION TO INCLUDE OFF TOPIC => Topic started by: m_fumich on August 17, 2020, 06:54:48 PM
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I’ll be pouring a small slab in the next few weeks. The slab will be the equivalent of a home garage floor. Is 4” adequate? If I plan to install a 2 post lift later, do I just determine where it will be placed and pour deeper footings for the posts?
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I would go no less than 6" for a garage slab.
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I’ll be pouring a small slab in the next few weeks. The slab will be the equivalent of a home garage floor. Is 4” adequate? If I plan to install a 2 post lift later, do I just determine where it will be placed and pour deeper footings for the posts?
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Do some diligence and see what some of the lift mfg require before planning a pour that thin.
Even a 6" slab is kinda thin for a two post imo but I'm not an engineer. Are you doing post tension or tied rebar? Good size footers and cross beams at least into the frost line?
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Do some diligence and see what some of the lift mfg require before planning a pour that thin.
Even a 6" slab is kinda thin for a two post imo but I'm not an engineer. Are you doing post tension or tied rebar? Good size footers and cross beams at least into the frost line?
I didn’t mean to suggest I’d be pouring 4” concrete to support the lift. Where ever the posts for the lift will be anchored, I’ll dig a 12” hole about 3’ deep although I know that’s FAR more than would be needed. I’m more concerned about the shop floor overall as a work surface. Aside from the two post lift, it will be no different than the garage floor attached to a house. And we have no frost line here if that matters.
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How many times are home designers worried about any loads heavier than couch? I wouldn't put 4" slab on grade down for a new house frost line or not, 4" concrete is for patios and sidewalks. A shop for light auto work/hobby work needs 6" minimum. A shop for modern ag equipment or semi trucks I would go 8"-10".
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Most lift manufacturers want 4 inch floor with no voids, no cracks, no saw cuts within so many inches and 4000 psi crete.
In Maine I wouldn't do a shop floor at less than 6 inches and #4 rebar 12 inches on center. But thats my experience seeing what happens with flat work in Maine
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Most lift manufacturers want 4 inch floor with no voids, no cracks, no saw cuts within so many inches and 4000 psi crete.
In Maine I wouldn't do a shop floor at less than 6 inches and #4 rebar 12 inches on center. But thats my experience seeing what happens with flat work in Maine
Walrus, did I see a thread over on channel 3 that involved you treated your shop floor with Diamondhard? I found a densifier/ sealer I am going to use on mine. If you used it what did you think?
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Most lift manufacturers want 4 inch floor with no voids, no cracks, no saw cuts within so many inches and 4000 psi crete.
In Maine I wouldn't do a shop floor at less than 6 inches and #4 rebar 12 inches on center. But thats my experience seeing what happens with flat work in Maine
Alot of freezing and thawing up there in the great white
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Most lift manufacturers want 4 inch floor with no voids, no cracks, no saw cuts within so many inches and 4000 psi crete.
In Maine I wouldn't do a shop floor at less than 6 inches and #4 rebar 12 inches on center. But thats my experience seeing what happens with flat work in Maine
Walrus, did I see a thread over on channel 3 that involved you treated your shop floor with Diamondhard? I found a densifier/ sealer I am going to use on mine. If you used it what did you think?
I did use it, I can't really tell what it did.? My slab is great. Its poured on grade, no frost walls, no thickened edges. Vapor barrier, 2 inches foam, no 4 rebar, pex for solar radiant and 4000 psi concrete. If I could ever get it cleaned up from all the crap from work it would look great even after 7 or 8 years of working in there.
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Most lift manufacturers want 4 inch floor with no voids, no cracks, no saw cuts within so many inches and 4000 psi crete.
In Maine I wouldn't do a shop floor at less than 6 inches and #4 rebar 12 inches on center. But thats my experience seeing what happens with flat work in Maine
Walrus, did I see a thread over on channel 3 that involved you treated your shop floor with Diamondhard? I found a densifier/ sealer I am going to use on mine. If you used it what did you think?
I did use it, I can't really tell what it did.? My slab is great. Its poured on grade, no frost walls, no thickened edges. Vapor barrier, 2 inches foam, no 4 rebar, pex for solar radiant and 4000 psi concrete. If I could ever get it cleaned up from all the crap from work it would look great even after 7 or 8 years of working in there.
Maybe that’s a good thing. Does it bead water? It should anyway.
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Most lift manufacturers want 4 inch floor with no voids, no cracks, no saw cuts within so many inches and 4000 psi crete.
In Maine I wouldn't do a shop floor at less than 6 inches and #4 rebar 12 inches on center. But thats my experience seeing what happens with flat work in Maine
Walrus, did I see a thread over on channel 3 that involved you treated your shop floor with Diamondhard? I found a densifier/ sealer I am going to use on mine. If you used it what did you think?
I did use it, I can't really tell what it did.? My slab is great. Its poured on grade, no frost walls, no thickened edges. Vapor barrier, 2 inches foam, no 4 rebar, pex for solar radiant and 4000 psi concrete. If I could ever get it cleaned up from all the crap from work it would look great even after 7 or 8 years of working in there.
Maybe that’s a good thing. Does it bead water? It should anyway.
No on beading water. Its had grease and oil on it and tons of salty water from work truck. I don't think it ever beaded water?
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I shouldn’t have said “bead” water, because it won’t do that but does it slow liquid absorption so spills could be cleaned up easier? Did it minimize dusting? Tractor Supply does it to its new buildings to make maintenance easier.
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I shouldn’t have said “bead” water, because it won’t do that but does it slow liquid absorption so spills could be cleaned up easier? Did it minimize dusting? Tractor Supply does it to its new buildings to make maintenance easier.
How thick of a slab does TSC have for their stores? That would definitely be the upper end of anything I’d consider for a shop floor. I must consider the possibility that a forklift might be used in the shop someday.
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I shouldn’t have said “bead” water, because it won’t do that but does it slow liquid absorption so spills could be cleaned up easier? Did it minimize dusting? Tractor Supply does it to its new buildings to make maintenance easier.
No dusting at all.
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On our shop and aprons we went with 6" minimum with some areas a little thicker. Shop floor was saw cut the next day and that is where the only cracking is in the saw cuts. Three cuts across the width and two down the length on the 30' x 55' slab. It was a monolithic pour as we didn't need stem walls that way. The garage and shop aprons were saw cut across the width in the middle as the water drains down the middle to the end by the garage apron. No cracks in the shop floor or aprons except in the saw cuts after plenty of forklift, tractor and vehicle traffic.
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I shouldn’t have said “bead” water, because it won’t do that but does it slow liquid absorption so spills could be cleaned up easier? Did it minimize dusting? Tractor Supply does it to its new buildings to make maintenance easier.
How thick of a slab does TSC have for their stores? That would definitely be the upper end of anything I’d consider for a shop floor. I must consider the possibility that a forklift might be used in the shop someday.
The sales floor and office/restrooms concrete is 4 inches. The stock room area in the back where the forklift runs is 5 inches. It is poured on top of 4 inches of gravel/ stone drainable fill. And all that will be placed on structural fill compacted to 98 percent of an approved proctor sample.
The last 2 things I mentioned are more important than the concrete itself. If you have a weak base, whatever you put on it will fail. Not if, but when.
The exterior heavy concrete paving that fronts the dumpsters and the loading dock areas are 6 inch concrete with heavy wire mesh. The base stone underneath is 6-8 inches deep. Once again the base under it gives the concrete something good to sit on.
If you have a good compacted pad to place some stone on then 4 inch 4000 pound Crete with wire should work. I would deepen 3 Ft by 3ft at the posts down to maybe 8 inches. I would email some lift manufacturers to see what they say, but that is what I read a few years ack when I was looking.
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