I've got a Craftsman question

[hickory n Steel]

Can anyone tell me if there were shallow 12pt 13/16 =V= sockets in 3/8 drive.

[DeadNutz]

I'm not exactly sure the years the =V= tools were sold. In a 1974/1975 catalog they did have that socket available. I do have a =V= 3/8dr deep 13/16 12 pt socket. The only shallow 3/8dr 12pt 13/16 sockets I have are -V- and later.

[hickory n Steel]

I'm not exactly sure the years the =V= tools were sold. In a 1974/1975 catalog they did have that socket available. I do have a =V= 3/8dr deep 13/16 12 pt socket. The only shallow 3/8dr 12pt 13/16 sockets I have are -V- and later.

Thanks for the reply.
I guess now I've just gotta find out when the =V= was used.

[hickory n Steel]

It looks like the answer is probably no.

A google search turns up a GG post stating that they switched to the -v- stamp in '66/'67, the post wasn't made by Lauver so I don't know if the info is correct.
 I do know that they still weren't available in the '68 catalog scan I found , and that they did appear in the '72/'73 scan I found.

[bonneyman]

I'd say using a 13/16" in 3/8" drive with any real torque is probably overstressing the drive tool. Perhaps a breaker bar would be OK, but I wouldn't want to put a good ratchet on that.

To me, I place a limit on the socket size to double the drive size. (If I need a size larger, I go to the next drive size).
So, a 1/4" ratchet shouldn't be really pushed past 1/2". I know there are 5/8" sockets for 1/4" drive but I can't see where I'd be limited to 1/4" drive.
With 3/8" - 3/4" would be as big as I go.
Though with 1/2" drive and up I think you could extend that upper limit a bit and be OK, as by then the steel knuckle is getting pretty thick and it survives torture better. Especially with a cheater bar.

Just my opinion.

[hickory n Steel]

I'd say using a 13/16" in 3/8" drive with any real torque is probably overstressing the drive tool. Perhaps a breaker bar would be OK, but I wouldn't want to put a good ratchet on that.

To me, I place a limit on the socket size to double the drive size. (If I need a size larger, I go to the next drive size).
So, a 1/4" ratchet shouldn't be really pushed past 1/2". I know there are 5/8" sockets for 1/4" drive but I can't see where I'd be limited to 1/4" drive.
With 3/8" - 3/4" would be as big as I go.
Though with 1/2" drive and up I think you could extend that upper limit a bit and be OK, as by then the steel knuckle is getting pretty thick and it survives torture better. Especially with a cheater bar.

Just my opinion.

You make a good point, and maybe there's a good reason these sets stopped at 11/16 back then.



I'm building a larger set around my 3/8 proto flex head anyways, so I'll put the =V= sockets back and the G codes will go in the larger set.

[bonneyman]

I'd say using a 13/16" in 3/8" drive with any real torque is probably overstressing the drive tool. Perhaps a breaker bar would be OK, but I wouldn't want to put a good ratchet on that.

To me, I place a limit on the socket size to double the drive size. (If I need a size larger, I go to the next drive size).
So, a 1/4" ratchet shouldn't be really pushed past 1/2". I know there are 5/8" sockets for 1/4" drive but I can't see where I'd be limited to 1/4" drive.
With 3/8" - 3/4" would be as big as I go.
Though with 1/2" drive and up I think you could extend that upper limit a bit and be OK, as by then the steel knuckle is getting pretty thick and it survives torture better. Especially with a cheater bar.

Just my opinion.

You make a good point, and maybe there's a good reason these sets stopped at 11/16 back then.



I'm building a larger set around my 3/8 proto flex head anyways, so I'll put the =V= sockets back and the G codes will go in the larger set.

Funny side note - I always thought it was odd that 3/8" drive standard ratchets were only about 7-8 inches long. Figured it was a handle strength or stress on the pawls thing. Then the same brand comes out with a 10-11 inch long 3/8" rat - and many of those are flex! (It is with my Bonney -702K ratchets). Say what? So is the standard length over built? 

So, I wonder what the REAL facts are about our discussion?

[hickory n Steel]

I'd say using a 13/16" in 3/8" drive with any real torque is probably overstressing the drive tool. Perhaps a breaker bar would be OK, but I wouldn't want to put a good ratchet on that.

To me, I place a limit on the socket size to double the drive size. (If I need a size larger, I go to the next drive size).
So, a 1/4" ratchet shouldn't be really pushed past 1/2". I know there are 5/8" sockets for 1/4" drive but I can't see where I'd be limited to 1/4" drive.
With 3/8" - 3/4" would be as big as I go.
Though with 1/2" drive and up I think you could extend that upper limit a bit and be OK, as by then the steel knuckle is getting pretty thick and it survives torture better. Especially with a cheater bar.

Just my opinion.

You make a good point, and maybe there's a good reason these sets stopped at 11/16 back then.



I'm building a larger set around my 3/8 proto flex head anyways, so I'll put the =V= sockets back and the G codes will go in the larger set.

Funny side note - I always thought it was odd that 3/8" drive standard ratchets were only about 7-8 inches long. Figured it was a handle strength or stress on the pawls thing. Then the same brand comes out with a 10-11 inch long 3/8" rat - and many of those are flex! (It is with my Bonney -702K ratchets). Say what? So is the standard length over built? 

So, I wonder what the REAL facts are about our discussion?

I wonder as well.

Any I've seen were kind of just stretched out and not proportionally scaled up much like my proto seems to be.
Maybe the standard ratchets are overbuilt, or maybe the manufacturer would just rather just give you 4 more inches of handle then have you using a long cheater bar.

I'll bet AVE on YouTube is set up to test just how much torque those extra inches are giving you, in fact I know he is because he's got a rig he made to test ratchets periodically.