Oliver 1650

[highland512]

This tractor along with a Oliver Super 66 diesel where in the shed when I purchased the property along with a BUNCH of stuff I would consider junk. previous owner removed all of the junk over the course of a weekend but left these two tractors. I asked what the deal was and they offered to sell them. I was able to buy them both for a unbelievable deal, and the seller was happy they didn't have to deal removing them from the barn.

Some of you might remember this same thread from the old site. I started tearing this tractor down this past summer. For now I plan on just rebuilding the motor and getting this tractor running, driving, and working.

[highland512]

how the building looked when I took possession.

moved the 1650 into the shop area, the brakes had to be removed. it had sat so long the where rusted solid

removal of the wheels by myself went well



I removed the grill by hand alone, it was a mistake. After I got it on the floor I looked up the weight, 320 lbs. Im glad I didnt blow my guts out.


Block removed

In training



All of the connecting rod bearing look good except for #3 and #4. Since removing and researching I think the crank has a small bend in it.

The engine had been rebuilt recently, I think what has happened was they some how bent the crank (my guess is starting fluid). Now they hear a knock in the motor, the motor was in-framed and put back together and the knock is still there, parked it and that was it. When I tore into it I found new connecting rod bearings, main bearings, wrist pins, rings, and a pain full of oil with metal. I think they put just enough $$ into to piss them off and it showed, there was enough blue gasket maker floating in it to clog the oil pick up. I plan on taking the crank to the local crank doctor around Christmas, hopefully I hear good news and start putting it back together.   

[goodfellow]

Very nice -- love the space, and the little helper is as cute as can be. You're a lucky man --

[highland512]

Very nice -- love the space, and the little helper is as cute as can be. You're a lucky man --

He is great, I did have to get him a little box though. He was getting into my box and walking off with tools. I finally found a good use for HF wrenches 

I plan on getting him a small 3 or 4 drawer box in a few years and he can help me build him a set, I remember what got me into tools was getting blamed for losing everything. I hope to avoid that. 

[DeadNutz]

Thanks for bringing these pics back. I will enjoy following this. I also like it when slipknot shows pics of him splitting tractors.

[Elroy]

That's a big project .

[goodfellow]

Thanks for bringing these pics back. I will enjoy following this. I also like it when slipknot shows pics of him splitting tractors.

+1 == suburbanites like myself don't know much about old AG equipment, and it's an education for sure.

[muddy]

Very nice -- love the space, and the little helper is as cute as can be. You're a lucky man --

He is great, I did have to get him a little box though. He was getting into my box and walking off with tools. I finally found a good use for HF wrenches 

I plan on getting him a small 3 or 4 drawer box in a few years and he can help me build him a set, I remember what got me into tools was getting blamed for losing everything. I hope to avoid that.

That will be one of his first memories hanging out with Dad working on tractors!

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[john k]

Those two Olivers are a bit large for lawn care, but sure would stand out  in the neighborhood.    The older Diesel may just have some Oliver guys salivating?   This ain't fair, you didn't have to drag em out of the woods or tow them 120 miles home!

[highland512]

Those two Olivers are a bit large for lawn care, but sure would stand out  in the neighborhood.    The older Diesel may just have some Oliver guys salivating?   This ain't fair, you didn't have to drag em out of the woods or tow them 120 miles home!

Yes, they are to big for mowing grass but just right for many other jobs. I would like to eventually get a 3 point tiller and 3 point jib pole lifter for it. Maybe even a loader, after I get it running I might install a wide front on it as well. Its sitting in the storage area with the rest of the parts.

Very nice -- love the space, and the little helper is as cute as can be. You're a lucky man --

He is great, I did have to get him a little box though. He was getting into my box and walking off with tools. I finally found a good use for HF wrenches 

I plan on getting him a small 3 or 4 drawer box in a few years and he can help me build him a set, I remember what got me into tools was getting blamed for losing everything. I hope to avoid that.

That will be one of his first memories hanging out with Dad working on tractors!

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I hope so, those where some of my first memories. I think he enjoys it, every time I put my boots on he comes running with his then follows me out to the shop. Its just distracting to try to keep an eye on him and get stuff done but I wouldn't trade it for nothin.
 

Thanks for bringing these pics back. I will enjoy following this. I also like it when slipknot shows pics of him splitting tractors.

+1 == suburbanites like myself don't know much about old AG equipment, and it's an education for sure.

No problem, I am hoping to have pictures of taking the crank to the machine shop in the next couple weeks.

That's a big project .

It's not that big.  Personally the idea of taking the motor out of my truck would seem much more daunting than this. In the past dad and I have taken an old Farmall H or M all the way down to bare castings and had the motor, transmission, and every single bolt removed and on the bench. The beautiful thing about these old tractors is the simplicity, with a 14 piece wrench set and 3/8 socket set you and damn near tear the hole thing down in a day. With a 9/16, 5/8, and a 3/4 socket you can remove 75% of the fasteners.   

[skfarmer]

Oh yea, old machinery  was pretty simple . Especially an oliver. Tha tis why many old farmers didint  have many tools. You just didnt need them for most repairs.

[highland512]

Crank shop just called, crank was bent along with 2 rods. Good news is all pieces where fixable and are ready for pickup. I was pleased to find out they corrected all 3 pieces and polished the crank for $112. 

Going to pick them after work up and get this project back underway! I have to have it done for next winter, I picked up a 72" snow blower last week for $150.

[goodfellow]

Crank shop just called, crank was bent along with 2 rods. Good news is all pieces where fixable and are ready for pickup. I was pleased to find out they corrected all 3 pieces and polished the crank for $112. 

Going to pick them after work up and get this project back underway! I have to have it done for next winter, I picked up a 72" snow blower last week for $150.

That's very good news! -- I never seem to have that much luck when it comes to bent cranks and rods. Mine are most always trash

[Heiny57]

That sounds like a good price.

[DeadNutz]

My jaw would of hit the floor on hearing that great price. I would definitely tip them in some way for that.

[muddy]

Sounds likes a good shop has your back! Can't wait to see it starting to come back together.

Sent from the twisted mind of the Mudman

[slip knot]

Dang good price for machine shop. They are getting harder to find a good shop that knows what they're doing. A FEL is damned handy. Mines down right now, injection pump took a dump and man I got projects piling up. 

[skfarmer]

that's economical machine shop work there.......


what kind of dirt do you have on him?

[highland512]

My jaw would of hit the floor on hearing that great price. I would definitely tip them in some way for that.

I plan on taking the head there for a checkout now. At those prices its not worth my time at the parts washer and setting valves plus they can check the surface (my guess is it's fine).

that's economical machine shop work there.......


what kind of dirt do you have on him?

As for the price, maybe they are like drug dealers, first ones on the house once your hooked 

He didn't come out and say it but I get the feeling they make enough money from drag racing, stock car racing, and tractor/truck pullers that they give the rest of us a break. 

[highland512]

ordered rod and main bearings from clevite. I decided to send the head to the machine shop as well, I will let them pros set valves and check the surface. Plus it has 40 years of baked on head grease they can clean off.

[jabberwoki]

Cant wait to see the vid of first start up.

[highland512]

So where do you guys order bearings from? I put and order in on line and they cancelled it, kit was back ordered, "for the foreseeable future". My next move is to go to a local AGCO dealer and get parts. Ouch $$$

[skfarmer]

i have had good luck with all states ag.

[slip knot]

My AGCO dealer isn’t too bad on oem stuff. Not as cheap on aftermarket but with my shipping he’s pretty close.

[highland512]

i have had good luck with all states ag.

No luck

Looks like my .020 under stock on the rods and .030 on the mains is the kink in ordering.

My AGCO dealer isn’t too bad on oem stuff. Not as cheap on aftermarket but with my shipping he’s pretty close.

Going to check with them Saturday....  Would a good NAPA be able to order these?

[slip knot]

Any good autoparts shop should be able to get them.

Ask the machine shop guys. They should have a decent vendor list.

[skfarmer]

i have had good luck with all states ag.

No luck

Looks like my .020 under stock on the rods and .030 on the mains is the kink in ordering.

My AGCO dealer isn’t too bad on oem stuff. Not as cheap on aftermarket but with my shipping he’s pretty close.

Going to check with them Saturday....  Would a good NAPA be able to order these?

hard to believe they are unavailable. i would put that as one of the top 3 kits of all brands and number one for oliver/white/cockshutt/moline. i looked it up and that kit must fit 25 or 30 different tractors plus industrial apps.

[muddy]

Call Maibach Tractor in Creston.

(330) 939-4192

Rick's ag Parts is also another good Oliver parts guy out of Wooster.

  (330) 466-2164

If you have any service questions give my best friends at Pine Run Farm Repair in Burbank a shout. Tell them Timmy sent you.

(330) 465-4397





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[highland512]

Rod bearings order confirmed, I actually found some NOS ones on ebay 75% cheaper than AGCO  . Everyone is telling me Reliance Power (http://www.reliancepowerparts.com/RelianceFrontPage) are the only people left that makes them. Local AGCO is trying to get the mains now. I am beginning to think about reusing the mains that where in the engine, the look great, we shall see. Next fight is putting together a seal and gasket set, 
if I dont have much more luck I am calling Maibach.
 

[Matt_T]

I am beginning to think about reusing the mains that where in the engine, the look great, we shall see.

Sounds like a good application for this plastigauge stuff. Then you'll know whether they are good or just look it.

https://www.plastigaugeusa.com/how.html

[highland512]

I called the Floyd County Museum in Charles City Iowa, they hold all of records from the Oliver company and can look up and send you the build sheet for your tractor for a small fee. I contacted them and gave them my serial #.

Surprisingly my serial number should be for a 1967 but they say my number is above the cut off for 1967 but below 1968.........huh. The block has a hand stamped date of 9-1967, and the serial # cast into the block falls into the 1967 dates. I am wondering if someone put 1650 decals on a 1550?? I am pretty sure they physically the same size.   

[highland512]

This is now the Oliver 1550 thread. The serial number returned to a 1550, there is only a 10 hp difference between the two. Good news is the rod bearings I already ordered and received will work (I hope). I think at some point in time someone rebuilt this machine and put a larger than stock sleeve kit in and decided it needed 1650 decals on the side

[oldnslo]

If you really want to have folks turn their heads, slap a Big Bud decal on that hood.

[slip knot]

I've been known to badge one with whatever I have handy I got a bunch of sticker packages on sale at TSC for $5 each some time ago. All of them are Ford 800 powermasters.

I've got a Ford 861 with the pistons marked STD but they're .060 oversized for the 172 block. Took me a while to figure that one out. Had to figure out how to read an inside mic again.

[muddy]

You could turbo it, and put 1950-T decals on....see how long it takes and how many notice.

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[highland512]

I think blackstone does make a kit for it 

[highland512]

I received my information back from the Floyd County Museum in Charles City Iowa, very cool and well worth the $30 they charged.

It rolled of the assembly line 10/11/67 and was shipped 10/12/67 to Minster OH which is about a 35 min away. This was a VERY basic tractor, they supplied me with an order form that you used to spec out your tractor. This 1550 only had 4 options, bigger rear rubber, bigger front rubber, two wheel narrow front end,and the large pre-cleaner for the intake. Base MSRP was $5,279.00, as built price was $5,489.00. I also learned that the block has been swapped out on this tractor and the original engine serial# and what I have do not match, I would bet this is when the bigger sleeves and new decals where applied.

Some interesting $ amount for options where:
diesel-$700
Wide front adjustable- $175
rear wheel weights-$47
rubber bushing seat with upholstery-$35

Dont you wish you could buy a new 54hp tractor today for $5,300?

[highland512]

Started reassembly today. The crank and pistons are installed minus one piston. I discovered a bad piston ring during assembly and will have to order one Monday.


Clearances all checked out well with in spec using the old mains. I looked all over the web and made several phone calls and couldn’t find mains to work with the crank since it’s .003 under. The motor shop seemed confident the old bearings will be fine.



Pistons all in (minus #3). Oliver did a good job with stamping caps and rods with pair ID and hole number. The rod bearings where sourced from flebay and worked great.

It was a good learning opportunity for my son for reading numbers and how things go together. He really loved to watch the assembly turning in the block and seeing the parts work together. Next up is the cam and tappets, oil pump, and oil pickup.

[jabberwoki]

Nice I love it...looking forward to the vid on startup day!

[Rural53]

I received my information back from the Floyd County Museum in Charles City Iowa, very cool and well worth the $30 they charged.

It rolled of the assembly line 10/11/67...
Dont you wish you could buy a new 54hp tractor today for $5,300?

About $41k in today's dollars.

[highland512]

Tappets and cam installed yesterday. Whats driving me crazy is the service manual (which is a copy of an original Oliver publication), it tells you how how the cam gear and crank gear align but not how the crank should be positioned. I am assuming cylinder #1 need to be top dead center but I have not confirmed this, still researching. Carb rebuild kit and a new ring are on the way. 

[muddy]

Tappets and cam installed yesterday. Whats driving me crazy is the service manual (which is a copy of an original Oliver publication), it tells you how how the cam gear and crank gear align but not how the crank should be positioned. I am assuming cylinder #1 need to be top dead center but I have not confirmed this, still researching. Carb rebuild kit and a new ring are on the way.

Usually timing is done with crank at #1 TDC.

Really should be only one way for everything to go together.

Been awhile since I had the front end of a waukesha apart. Id have to study it to double check.

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[highland512]

Tappets and cam installed yesterday. Whats driving me crazy is the service manual (which is a copy of an original Oliver publication), it tells you how how the cam gear and crank gear align but not how the crank should be positioned. I am assuming cylinder #1 need to be top dead center but I have not confirmed this, still researching. Carb rebuild kit and a new ring are on the way.

Usually timing is done with crank at #1 TDC.

Really should be only one way for everything to go together.

Been awhile since I had the front end of a waukesha apart. Id have to study it to double check.

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That’s what I figured as well, #1 is at TDC now. If I have the crank at TDC on #1 and the crank “c” and the cam “c” aligned is there not a chance that the cam could be 180* out of time?

I plan on calling Mabach tomorrow, I need to order some steering gear seals anyways.

[Matt_T]

That’s what I figured as well, #1 is at TDC now. If I have the crank at TDC on #1 and the crank “c” and the cam “c” aligned is there not a chance that the cam could be 180* out of time?

It's two turns of the crank for one turn of the cam so you really can't get the cam 180* off. Rotate the crank 360* back to TDC and the cam turns 180* from TDC compression to TDC exhaust.

[highland512]

I talked to a couple different oliver guys over the weekend and they both said to get #1 at TDC and align the C marks, good deal already got that done.

Oil pump and distributer are installed, what a pain. The distributer is driven off the oil pump and can only be installed one way, I only had the oil pump and distributer off about 20 times each but the parts all line up now. Im ready to bolt on the pan and set the head on, hopefully this week. 

[J.A.F.E.]

Thanks for posting this. I have been following the project with interest.

[jabberwoki]

Yep it really pulled me it too.

[highland512]

She’s got it all figured out.

[skfarmer]

Why didn't you ask her the timing questions?

[highland512]

Why didn't you ask her the timing questions?

I did........... her response was "woody" she loves watching toy story 

[skfarmer]

Why didn't you ask her the timing questions?

I did........... her response was "woody" she loves watching toy story 

to infinity........and beyond.

I liked little bit peep. I bet she knew how to get a second date.

[muddy]

Why didn't you ask her the timing questions?

I did........... her response was "woody" she loves watching toy story 

to infinity........and beyond.

I liked little bit peep. I bet she knew how to get a second date.

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[muddy]

I talked to a couple different oliver guys over the weekend and they both said to get #1 at TDC and align the C marks, good deal already got that done.

Oil pump and distributer are installed, what a pain. The distributer is driven off the oil pump and can only be installed one way, I only had the oil pump and distributer off about 20 times each but the parts all line up now. Im ready to bolt on the pan and set the head on, hopefully this week.

If I'm thinking right the pump is driven by the distributor, which is driven by the cam. A long flathead helps align the pump drive with the shaft. I usually eye up where the drive will sit once it engages the cam and does a 1/8-1/4 turn. It can be tricky

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[Heiny57]

That’s a great helper there. 

[DeadNutz]

That’s a great helper there. 

I think she is saying let's get this thing finished so I can go for a ride. 

[highland512]

That’s a great helper there. 

I think she is saying let's get this thing finished so I can go for a ride. 

She loves a tractor or lawn mower ride. She grins and giggles the entire time.

I talked to a couple different oliver guys over the weekend and they both said to get #1 at TDC and align the C marks, good deal already got that done.

Oil pump and distributer are installed, what a pain. The distributer is driven off the oil pump and can only be installed one way, I only had the oil pump and distributer off about 20 times each but the parts all line up now. Im ready to bolt on the pan and set the head on, hopefully this week.

If I'm thinking right the pump is driven by the distributor, which is driven by the cam. A long flathead helps align the pump drive with the shaft. I usually eye up where the drive will sit once it engages the cam and does a 1/8-1/4 turn. It can be tricky

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Close, The oil pump is driven off the cam which then drives the distributor. Whats your thoughts on Pertronix electronic ignition conversion? From what I have been reading the vacuum on these is a joke, looks like a good option to get rid of the vacuum.   

[muddy]

That’s a great helper there. 

I think she is saying let's get this thing finished so I can go for a ride. 

She loves a tractor or lawn mower ride. She grins and giggles the entire time.

I talked to a couple different oliver guys over the weekend and they both said to get #1 at TDC and align the C marks, good deal already got that done.

Oil pump and distributer are installed, what a pain. The distributer is driven off the oil pump and can only be installed one way, I only had the oil pump and distributer off about 20 times each but the parts all line up now. Im ready to bolt on the pan and set the head on, hopefully this week.

If I'm thinking right the pump is driven by the distributor, which is driven by the cam. A long flathead helps align the pump drive with the shaft. I usually eye up where the drive will sit once it engages the cam and does a 1/8-1/4 turn. It can be tricky

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Close, The oil pump is driven off the cam which then drives the distributor. Whats your thoughts on Pertronix electronic ignition conversion? From what I have been reading the vacuum on these is a joke, looks like a good option to get rid of the vacuum.   

Petronix is the only way to go. Dump the points and never look back.

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[highland512]

Flywheel installed along with the front cover and the rear main. Should have the pan and head on this week.

Main problem I have now is the carb rebuild. I cant get the brass parts out of the cast iron body for gasket replacement.

[skfarmer]

Main problem I have now is the carb rebuild. I cant get the brass parts out of the cast iron body for gasket replacement.

damn ethanol fuel and small engine carbs, just get a new carb off ebay for 20 bucks.


oops.. wrong answer in the wrong thread on the wrong site!

[highland512]

damn ethanol fuel and small engine carbs, just get a new carb off ebay for 20 bucks.


oops.. wrong answer in the wrong thread on the wrong site!

A new Zenith carburetor is only $524.40 

Any guesses on removing it? Heat wrench? prayer?

[DeadNutz]

Flywheel installed along with the front cover and the rear main. Should have the pan and head on this week.

Main problem I have now is the carb rebuild. I cant get the brass parts out of the cast iron body for gasket replacement.

Have you soaked the carb in anything for a period of time?

[highland512]

It sat a bucket of Crown PSC 1000 Parts Cleaner for 2 months.

While this parts cleaner does a good job on oily engine parts Im not impressed with its ability to cut through dirt and crud. I am currently giving this fitting a steady diet of Kroil. 

[highland512]

After 3 days soak in kroil it finally came loose with some cold chisel and hammer action. Carb is now rebuilt. Also got the rear main installed and hope to have the pan and head installed this weekend.

[jabberwoki]

How`d the carb look? i`m supervised you were able to salvage it .

[highland512]

How`d the carb look? i`m supervised you were able to salvage it .

Like most tractor carbs it had about a half inch of baked on oil/dirt. The inside had that greenish yellow film that filled all of the pours of the casting. I was able to clean that with carb cleaner and small brass wire brush. 

[slip knot]

Those old cast iron carbs are pretty robust. If all else fails soak it in muratic acid. it will be sparkling clean for @30 seconds then it will start to flash rust. I've saved many old carbs like that.

[jabberwoki]

Yeah you gotta dip in in an equal strength alkaline bath right out of the acid for a min or too then rinse in clean very hot water. The heat from the water heats up the part and aids in drying faster.

[goodfellow]

Those old cast iron carbs are pretty robust. If all else fails soak it in muratic acid. it will be sparkling clean for @30 seconds then it will start to flash rust. I've saved many old carbs like that.

Yup, that's the fastest way to do it. If you want to go the incremental route, then start with a 3:1 solution of white vinegar and water. Bring it a boil in an old pot and put in the carb. Let it simmer for 20-30 minutes, then remove and rinse with water. It works almost as well as the old fashioned "hot dip" carburetor cleaner solvent we used to get in the 60s and 70s before the EPA banned it.

[highland512]

Pan and head installed, valve train should be installed tomorrow.

[jabberwoki]

Sweet , what capacity is that motor?

[highland512]

 

Sweet , what capacity is that motor?

8qts of oil
20qts of coolant

[DeadNutz]

Sweet , what capacity is that motor?

8qts of oil
20qts of coolant

He may have been asking in an Aussie sort of way about the displacement and HP.

[highland512]

Sweet , what capacity is that motor?

8qts of oil
20qts of coolant

He may have been asking in an Aussie sort of way about the displacement and HP.

232 CI
Nebraska Test #944-Gas powered Oliver 1550
53.34 PTO HP
46.77 Drawbar HP
Max fuel consumption 4.9 gal hr

[slip knot]

Moving right along on the ollie. 

When your done I'll bring the super 55 up and you can go thru it. It just has a bad injector pump a burnt PTO clutch pack and 20 yrs of neglect to get right.

[jabberwoki]

Sweet , what capacity is that motor?

8qts of oil
20qts of coolant

That's it Ta.
He may have been asking in an Aussie sort of way about the displacement and HP.

232 CI
Nebraska Test #944-Gas powered Oliver 1550
53.34 PTO HP
46.77 Drawbar HP
Max fuel consumption 4.9 gal hr

[muddy]

Those old cast iron carbs are pretty robust. If all else fails soak it in muratic acid. it will be sparkling clean for @30 seconds then it will start to flash rust. I've saved many old carbs like that.

Yup, that's the fastest way to do it. If you want to go the incremental route, then start with a 3:1 solution of white vinegar and water. Bring it a boil in an old pot and put in the carb. Let it simmer for 20-30 minutes, then remove and rinse with water. It works almost as well as the old fashioned "hot dip" carburetor cleaner solvent we used to get in the 60s and 70s before the EPA banned it.

Gonna have to save that for future reference.

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[highland512]

Moving right along on the ollie. 

When your done I'll bring the super 55 up and you can go thru it. It just has a bad injector pump a burnt PTO clutch pack and 20 yrs of neglect to get right.

I have a super 66 diesel next in line you can park it next to. My son wants to do it next because it's "small enough for him to drive", he is 3 

[highland512]

I didn’t look this close at the flywheel when I removed it from the engine. The pressure plate looks the same. Wifey dropped the flywheel off at the machine shop this morning and I just ordered a clutch kit with the pilot and hub bearings along with the pressure plate, surprisingly the clutch kit was only $224.

[highland512]

So what would anyone recommend for oil type for this machine? 15w-40?

[slip knot]

I run 10w-40 in my tractors but just about any oil would work with a tight motor. I dont know what yours calls for with oil pressure. I think the super 55 has only 20psi max so you may see a lower oil pressure than normal.

[muddy]

So what would anyone recommend for oil type for this machine? 15w-40?

It probably originally called for 30wt, you can still get straight 30.

If it were mine I'd be happy with either 10-30 or 15-40.

Make it even easier, what's the most common oil used around your place.....

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[highland512]

So what would anyone recommend for oil type for this machine? 15w-40?

It probably originally called for 30wt, you can still get straight 30.

If it were mine I'd be happy with either 10-30 or 15-40.

Make it even easier, what's the most common oil used around your place.....

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T6 5w40 in my truck. I also keep a few qts of T4 15w40 on the self at all times......

[muddy]

So what would anyone recommend for oil type for this machine? 15w-40?

It probably originally called for 30wt, you can still get straight 30.

If it were mine I'd be happy with either 10-30 or 15-40.

Make it even easier, what's the most common oil used around your place.....

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T6 5w40 in my truck. I also keep a few qts of T4 15w40 on the self at all times......

I'd go with the 15-40

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[highland512]

Electronic ignition kit from pentronix installed.



New coil, plugs, and wires installed. New ignition relay on order.

[muddy]

Looking good!

Sent from the twisted mind of the Mudman

[highland512]

After 2 solid days of work the motor is in and runs. We had a hell of a time getting the motor in place and connected to the input shafts. After discovering the valves where so far out of wack that it had no compression it fired up and built good oil pressure which was the goal we had for the weekend. Now it’s time for reassembly

[slip knot]

Nothing like the first time it fires off. Good call on the petronix too.

[jabberwoki]

Bloody nice, thats a huge hump out of the way.

[muddy]

Bet it was sweet music. Those 6 cylinders always sounded good.

Sent from the twisted mind of the Mudman

[highland512]

This left over gas reminds me of Dr Pepper.



Once I get a good weekend with temps above freezing for 72 hours I’m going to try electrolysis for the inside of the tank. Anyone had any luck trying electrolysis on tank interiors? I thought about the nuts in the tank then strapping it to wheel trick, but it seems very abrasive.

[slip knot]

If you have an old school radiator shop they can boil it out clean. if its pretty heavy rust your gonna have a lot of pin hole leaks when your done with electrolysis. BTDT.  I've had pretty decent luck with a pressure washer on good tanks that are just gunked up with old gas. I found acetone works really well at dissolving the crap left by bio-diesel. 

[highland512]

If you have an old school radiator shop they can boil it out clean. if its pretty heavy rust your gonna have a lot of pin hole leaks when your done with electrolysis. BTDT.  I've had pretty decent luck with a pressure washer on good tanks that are just gunked up with old gas. I found acetone works really well at dissolving the crap left by bio-diesel.

it dose not look like it's heavy deep rust (no chunks anyways) the whole tank seems to be covered with that nasty grit like rust that bare metal develops in moisture. The daylight hole you see in the picture is the tank outlet.

[Heiny57]

I used this stuff on a old rusty Chrysler tank. I used a snow chain inside the tank to knock crap loose.

[jabberwoki]

I`ve done muriatic acid but you must rinse out well and then soak in a alkaline solution to neutralize, but boy howdy do it get clean.

[highland512]

If you have an old school radiator shop they can boil it out clean. if its pretty heavy rust your gonna have a lot of pin hole leaks when your done with electrolysis. BTDT.  I've had pretty decent luck with a pressure washer on good tanks that are just gunked up with old gas. I found acetone works really well at dissolving the crap left by bio-diesel.

I had to take the radiator to the shop anyways so I gave them the gas tank as well. I was starting to cringe at what it was going to cost me but I told my self why cheep up with the life blood of any running motor.

 

[highland512]

Over the weekend I picked up all the seals to rebuild the power steering rack.  While working on removal of the unit from the tractor I hit a snag. The ring gear is held in with a bolt welded to a washer that rides under a snap ring which forces the ring gear up and out with the removal of the bolt. While removing the bolt the weld broke after about 5 sec of using the impact gun, shit.


I guess the next move is to remove the snap ring and reweld the bolt and washer.

[highland512]

Progress is being made



This wide front was sitting in the corner of the shop when I bought the place. With some slight modifications to one casting it fits. It was a trick to get this thing under the tractor by myself but after 2 hours it was there.



Coming together on the front end. I went ahead and put the grill on ( all 230 lbs of it). This weekend I need to pick up radiator hoses, coolant, hydraulic oil, gear oil, some misc hardware and I might have it driving come Monday.

[jabberwoki]

Are we going to get a vid?

[muddy]

Looking good!

Sent from the twisted mind of the mudman

[highland512]

Well you haven’t done very good with updates on this project. I have it running and driving now. Even blowed snow wit it a couple weeks ago.

Pictures from last summer, this is once I had it running and had started fitting the sheet metal. I wasnt happy with the way things looked. I had new back rubber on order but had to wait nearly 8 weeks for them to come in. So in the mean time while waiting I dismounted the rims, hub castings, grill, weights, and other items for blast and paint.
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 


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[highland512]

I also got the dash lights working, surprisingly all of the gauges except the amp gauge worked. 
Blasted the rims, grill, hub castings, wheel weights, side panels and painted the correct Oliver "Clover White".

I wound up getting BKT tires, I wanted Firestone's but I was told the wait on them could be a years plus.

[highland512]

While working on polishing the sheet metal I found the original decals from when this tractor was sold new. Minster OH matches what's on the build card for delivery location. Pretty cool know where a machine came from.

I was glad to run the engine and actually work it, the longer I worked it the better it ran. It handled the 84" snowblower like a champ, me on the other hand, I slipped while getting on the tractor and broke a rib. 

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[DeadNutz]

Thanks for the update and it looks good.

[skfarmer]

Looks good. Is that front axle a bit odd? It looks set back more than I have normally seen.

If I recall the Oliver's are pretty good on a blower. They have fairly slow reverse gears.

[highland512]

Looks good. Is that front axle a bit odd? It looks set back more than I have normally seen.

If I recall the Oliver's are pretty good on a blower. They have fairly slow reverse gears.

It’s what they call a set back axle. They aren’t that rare but not common. They came standard on utility models with shorter spindles. I believe you could order up to a 1950 with one. This axle was laying in the corner of the barn under a stack of seed sacks.


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[muddy]

Looking good!

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[slip knot]

Nice. I love seeing these old machines brought back from the dead.

[highland512]

To much?


I picked up this planter at an auction for $495. Dad runs 2 different cyclo IH planters. This thing will pay for its self in parts after one breakdown.


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[DeadNutz]

Nice grab. Besides being a valuable parts source, with steel prices like they are there's a good amount of steel there for projects and repairs.

[skfarmer]

Those are damn good planters. If it is in decent condition itmay prove valuable as a backup or to plant a different variety.

[jabberwoki]

Look at that proud little champ

[highland512]

Those are damn good planters. If it is in decent condition itmay prove valuable as a backup or to plant a different variety.

We think they are great planters as well. Look at a field planted with a $4,000 6 row cyclo 900 vs a field planted with $20,000 6 row kinze and you can’t tell a difference. (At least that was the case last summer vs a neighboring field. )

The main reason I got it so cheep is it’s set set 8 on 36. This whole area is on 30”.

But after looking at it I think we might have a summer project. It’s in really good shape, actually in very good shape for its age and has been barn kept. Only one welded bracket will need moved (the trailer axle lift cylinder). The row units are nice and tight, opening and closing wheels are in great shape, and it also a bunch of yetter accessories. After a considerable amount of work I think it would make a great primary planter, we shall see.


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[muddy]

$500?? Is that a typo? If not you stole the thing!

We never ran Cyclo planters (always Deere or kinze) but know they have a cult following for a good reason.

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[highland512]

$500?? Is that a typo? If not you stole the thing!

We never ran Cyclo planters (always Deere or kinze) but know they have a cult following for a good reason.

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$495 out the gate with the pto pump ($400 for a reman) and one each corn and bean drums. I was happy.


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