Chrysler 2.2 Ltr Radiator, water pump, & Timing Belt

[muddy]

The Plymouth sprung a leak in the radiator. So I decided to do the whole nine yards.

First thing I always do is put se tunes on.





 Then I lay out new parts and make sure they look right.





First start by draining the remaining coolant from the system. Then remove the shroud, trans cooler lines and the upper and lower radiator hoses. The I removed the fasteners holding the radiator in. This allows you to lean the radiator forward to get to the condenser bolts.





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If your AC actually holds freon be careful with the condenser. Mine has a gaping hole in the evaporator so...eh




Once the condenser is out of the way pull the old radiator out put the new one in and reverse the steps.






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Sent from the twisted mind of the Mudman

[goodfellow]

Good job -- now do the "full Monty" and get that evaporator out before summer

[muddy]

Next came the water pump and timing belt.


Start by removing the accessory drive belts. Also need to remove the AC compressor and compressor mount. Remove the crank and water pump pulleys and remove the timing covers







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Loosen the timing belt tensioner and remove the belt. Then remove the countershaft pulley. The. You can remove the water pump. It would also be ideal time to replace the counter shaft and crank seals. This water pump uses an o-ring for sealing. A little grease will keep it in place as you install the new one.


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Next undo the two right hand motor mount bolts and jack the engine up enough to slip the old belt out and slip the new one in. The old belt wasn't long for life for another 100,000.






The timing on this engine is fairly simple. The dot on the crank pulley and line on the counter shaft pulley have to be parallel to each other. The cam gear has a small oval hole that get out 12 o'clock to the cylinder head. The tension on the belt is set by the caming action of rotating the pulley body (I can't think of the right term right now). There's is a special tool for this but I don't have it. You should be able to rotate belt 90 between the cam and counter shaft. Another way to tell us where the belt is riding in the gears. Too tight and it ride in the inside towards the block. Too loose and it'll right on the outside away from the block. I have it set a bit snug for lossening as it breaks in.











Nows time to start it up and see if you did it right. No worries as this is a non interference engine the worse that could happen is it won't run. If you did it right reverse the steps and put everything back together and enjoy an adult beverage knowing you saved yourself a fair chunk of change doing it yourself.








Sent from the twisted mind of the Mudman

[muddy]

Good job -- now do the "full Monty" and get that evaporator out before summer

I'm waiting for the heater core to start gushing to give me a reason to tear the dash out

Sent from the twisted mind of the Mudman