Craftsman Band Saw.

[muddy]

Was always on the look out for a table top band saw. Had no true need for one but I figured I'd find use if I had one.

A local bid board auction had this Craftsman. I put $50 on it and figured I'd be out bid.

I'm assuming late 80s or 90s?



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[goodfellow]

Very good bandsaw Tim. You got a great deal on it

[Uncle Buck]

Well done mud man! It should be a handy addition!

[hickory n Steel]

Great score, that's something I've definitely been needing but not enough to pay what a new one costs.

[bonneyman]

Very nice, Tim.

I'm like you that way. Don't have a "need" for a tool but if I find one I'll probably use it.   

[oldcarguy]

Nice find. Sixty years ago many home hobbyists owned a band saw. Table saws were very popular too. Radial arm saws began replacing the table saw. Today not so.

[slip knot]

Nice little band saw for sure. Lots of videos on utube about setting them up and making improvements to them. I still use my band saw quite a bit. Between the band saw and sliding miter saw I can do most anything I need to.

I gave away the radial arm saw. took up too much room compared to the miter saw.

[fatfillup]

Nice addition to the stable.

You will find uses for it for sure.

[muddy]

Used the band saw tonight.  Everything is outta wack. The top tire kept kicking off.

I managed to use it to get what I wanted done. The blade had a lot of flex.

Digging into it on the interwebs...  Looks like I new to adjust the guides and thrust rollers and the blade tension to have it run true.

I downloaded the owners maual. I'll try to find new tires, and a blade and get everything adjusted, and see how it goes.







 




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[goodfellow]

Probably a good idea to disassemble the guides, rollers and tensioner. Clean it up and and lube everything before getting new tires. There's a lot of rust and grime built up in that mechanism.

[muddy]

Probably a good idea to disassemble the guides, rollers and tensioner. Clean it up and and lube everything before getting new tires. There's a lot of rust and grime built up in that mechanism.

Thanks for the tip Ray! I didn't even take the table off and see how gummed up the bottom guides and rollers are.

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[slip knot]

The tires are replaceable. I replace mine about every 5 years or so. it looks like the upper wheel may need a new one. There is a raised area on each side of the wheel. the tire needs to ride in between those ribs. The tires are crowned and that crown helps keep the blade centered. The blade looks pretty chooched too. a new blade does wonders for the cut.

[pep]

The tires are replaceable. I replace mine about every 5 years or so. it looks like the upper wheel may need a new one. There is a raised area on each side of the wheel. the tire needs to ride in between those ribs. The tires are crowned and that crown helps keep the blade centered. The blade looks pretty chooched too. a new blade does wonders for the cut.

Slip knot:  is correct and I would NOT suggest taking apart stuff. Hose down all the guides above & under the table with WD40, and blade tensioner. See if things loosen up, there is a very good chance they will.

The guides are there to support the blade after it is tracking. Preventing the blade from shifting rearward when cutting.

So back off the guides and adjust the blade & tire track. One guide rides on the back of the blade, preventing it from moving off-track

The other centers the blade front to rear, or L&R depending on how you are looking at it.

Adding tension to the blade will cause it to walk outboard.  This looks like it should be backed off. Not knowing the original owner, the saw blade may be oversized. The manual most likely will have that measurement.

#1  blade & tire

   
#2 Second life as a metal saw

#3 The blade should be switched between the blocks, just touching no binding, teeth open not covered.     

[pep]

The more I look the more I see, that this picture tells the story.


1 the blade is not switched between the guide blocks. Reson the blade is riding on the outer edge of the wheel

2 left arrow if that is a jam nut? Loosen, and maybe the pad right arrow threads in. Allowing the blade to ride between the guide blocks.

As you can see the blade tracking is the first step., as well as the upper tire too wheel position.

It looks like it is hanging off the rear of the wheel, even seen are scuff marks on the back shroud.

I would release the blade, remove it off the wheel, use a putty knife. Get under the tire and raise it enough to move it outboard, a little at a time rotating the wheel, walking out, to the front lip

Might not need tires.

Nice find it will be a handy saw.

[muddy]

Thanks for all the tips guys!

The more I look the more I see, that this picture tells the story.


1 the blade is not switched between the guide blocks. Reson the blade is riding on the outer edge of the wheel

2 left arrow if that is a jam nut? Loosen, and maybe the pad right arrow threads in. Allowing the blade to ride between the guide blocks.

As you can see the blade tracking is the first step., as well as the upper tire too wheel position.

It looks like it is hanging off the rear of the wheel, even seen are scuff marks on the back shroud.

I would release the blade, remove it off the wheel, use a putty knife. Get under the tire and raise it enough to move it outboard, a little at a time rotating the wheel, walking out, to the front lip

Might not need tires.

Nice find it will be a handy saw.

The whole upper guide assembly can be moved left and right (or forward backwards depending where your standing)

The tip wheel rides in between two shoulders on the wheel. Moving it isn't really an option. It keeps jumping off the wheel.

I'm going to get a new blade and tires and then adjust everything as you have suggested!


Thanks again for all the helpful tips guys!

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