Re-furbing plumbing valves

[bonneyman]

Here's an anti-siphon valve with manual water shut-off for use with an irrigation system. This thing can go for $20-$25 or more - and are almost always installed in really bad areas for total replacement - so they actually make a kit that replaces the worn out plunger mechanism (which sells for about $10). You just turn off the water, unscrew the large flat cap, and swap out the worn parts. Recap and off you go.
The manual shut-off valve typically doesn't get used all that much, so people don't refurb that portion. Though it's similar to a hose bibb with parts and procedure.
I got this from a customer who brought it in with him to the hardware store. He had backed his car too far under his carport, and bumped the valve, snapping off the 3/4" pipe. I told him the broken stub could be removed, and the valve reinstalled - he could put a rebuild kit in it if he wanted. (But that wasn't what brought him in). He said no, he'd just replace the whole thing, and gave the old one to me. I removed the rusty stub in about 5 minutes, then cleaned it up and checked out the internals - nothing wrong with any of it! 

The rebuild kit is like this:
https://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/RK-30C-C-p/rk-30c-c.htm

Here's a great tutorial on operation with good pics and internal views:
https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/28207/how-do-i-fix-a-sprinkler-valve-that-leaks-instead-of-popping-up-the-sprinkler-he

[J.A.F.E.]

It is a problem and a fairly universal one at that. People have become so accustomed to just looking at dollars. In a way it's natural when you don't know the difference between A and B and B is more money than A most people are drawn to A. It's a big part of why garbage is so pervasive on the market. But the answer really is to find out why A and B are priced differently just most are not motivated or too lazy or too intimidated or like the troll think they know it all.

[DeadNutz]

I have replaced float valves in swamp coolers for people. Those damn cheap ones from HD or Lowes are lucky to last more than a year. Spend3 times the money and get much longer service life out of the better ones. And people don't know those oil cups exist on bearings for a reason.

[slip knot]

The oil cups comment reminds me of taking a pump and motor course some years ago and the instructor didn't know what the screw down grease cups were. I brought one in the next day and gave a demonstration to the class. Told him I wanted a cut on the $$ due to me bringing show and tell items.

[bonneyman]

I have replaced float valves in swamp coolers for people. Those damn cheap ones from HD or Lowes are lucky to last more than a year. Spend3 times the money and get much longer service life out of the better ones. And people don't know those oil cups exist on bearings for a reason.

Yeah, I avoid those plastic valve body float valves like the plague! Only use brass-bodied floats.
In fact, I try and swap out as many plastic parts in evap coolers with brass equivalents that I can. I made a list while at Ace of brass fitting's needed to replace plastic parts. If there's interest I can put a list of those up.

[bonneyman]

The oil cups comment reminds me of taking a pump and motor course some years ago and the instructor didn't know what the screw down grease cups were. I brought one in the next day and gave a demonstration to the class. Told him I wanted a cut on the $$ due to me bringing show and tell items.

Show and tell! 

So how much cashola did you get???

[slip knot]

Never did get any $$ from the guy but he let me skate on his class numerous times and still gave me ceu's  I guess he figured if I knew more about the topic than him, it would be better if I wasn't in the class.    Been doing this a few years now.