Bearing interchanges

[AnsonJ]

while looking at possibly cheaper ways to replace some idler pulleys on my 1997 Ranger, I decided to see if a bearing replacement would be cheaper.  so armed with the knowledge of the bearing number which was still readable on the idler, I did some searching.   Long story short, the original bearing is an NTN 6203LLU which I can get an exact replacement off of Amazon for 6.99.  new idler is 13.99 on Rock Auto.  And then I thought, what about other manufacturers?  so I did a bearing interchange search, and found that Timken and SKF both make this bearing.  Timken's version is only 4.55 while SKF is 12 bucks.  So yes, you can save a bit, but the bearing does look pretty difficult to press out of the original steel idler.  if it is a plastic idler such as the one on the tensioner that is ribbed, forget it.  they are only 9 bucks and the idler is molded around the outer bearing race.

Now for you guys that may have  some bearings for other projects, I present to you:


Bearing interchanges...kind of handy.

Timken
https://www.pooleyinc.com/pdf/BearingInterchangeGuide7536.pdf

SKF
http://www.skf.com/binary/79-66347/457013.pdf

NTN  I think just about every car I have owned has had NTN bearings in the accessories
http://www.ntnamericas.com/en/product-support-and-training/part-interchange-search

Regards,


Anson

[J.A.F.E.]

Good information, thank you!

I replaced the bearing in the idler on my wifes Buick but in truth by the time I was done and the effort involved it wan't really worth it.

[oldnslo]

The 6203 (like other similar sized automotive application bearings) come as variants. Examples are deep or shallow groove, no seal, or single and double seal versions.

Size is only one important aspect.














(thats what SHE said).

 

[AnsonJ]

JAFE, that is what i am thinking.  the whole idler is only 13 bucks.   but still a neat site, and I may come up with other applications where the 6 dollar bearing might save me 50 bucks. 

Oldnslo,  the suffix of the bearing tells you what you need.  the one on my Ranger was a 6203LLU which turns out to be a 40mm OD (the 62 in the bearing number), 17mm ID (the 03), 12mm wide sealed on both sides bearing (the LL, single L is for sealed on one side, I forget what the U was for...).  there definitely are several variants of the 6203 bearing. 

more than likely to make the job of pressing hte bearing out, I would need a press of some sort to do so, but currently my press would be a 3.5 inch Babco vise utilizing a socket as a pressing ram...

AJ

[J.A.F.E.]

Oh for a lot of stuff it's perfect. Like alternators, PS pumps and for the brave waterpumps. Or even a hard to find idler.

OnS makes a good point though there are other parameters that are usually important when selecting a bearing.

[Elroy]

Another aspect of modern manufacturing technologies you may discover: Serviceability

A few years ago, the front alternator bearing on Elroy's 2005 Buick was making noise. While high quality replacement bearings were readily available. Elroy discovered that the front bearing was actually "crimped" into the front housing. If you recall, older Delco designs incorporated a bearing retainer plate held on by 3 self tapping screws. Newer designs render the bearing non-serviceable as the bearing is permanently installed while eliminating (4) parts PLUS the serviceability

Elroy didn't discover this "improvement" until he had it all disassembled. Elroy was pissed and forced the old bearing out, physically destroying the crimp. This little modification yielded a loose slip fit on the bearing OD inside the front case. Some red loctite solved the bearing fit problem.

Just goes to show that in some cases newer is not necessarily better. It's just cheaper to manufacture with the cost savings going into the pocket of the manufacturer. On top of that, GM was looking to sell a complete alternator, not just a replacement bearing. 

[bmwrd0]

The rear main bearing on the washing machine is going out and leaking if you fill the thing with too many clothes (like the wife does). I was going to replace it, but that part isn't sold, you have to get a whole new rear panel at 500 odd bucks. No thanks. So I looked into just replacing the bearing, but I realized I hated that thing so much (front loader) that I will wait and replace it. Chaffs my hide a little, but I was so much work on the stupid thing as you had to completely disassemble it.

Gonna get me a top loader.

[J.A.F.E.]

I can sympathize. New appliances are dreadful. I just went through something similar with our washer. Long story but it seems they are made to not be economical or practical to repair. The new one is all electronic and I know parts will be NLA in two years when it starts breaking down plus it makes the oddest noises. The manual even has a section mentioning not to return the machine for odd noises - they are normal.

It sounds so unfamiliar for the first load my wife took up a vigil and kept opening the lid (when the controller released the latch) just to see if anything was happening. Plus it seems to take much longer to wash a load.

[DeadNutz]

We bought all new appliances for the house in 2011 when we bought it. The Maytag front load washer had the suspension go out just after a year old. The dealer we bought it from said to let them try to sneak it in under the warranty which was expired. They got it covered under warranty which was good as they said we would be better off buying a new machine rather than pay for the repair.

[slip knot]

The wifes 07 Durango alternator took dump a while back. My trusted alternator repair shop told me they couldn't get parts. go buy a factory unit at the stealership.

10 yr old car and the aftermarket hasn't covered an alternator yet?