Not a motor problem

[DeadNutz]

Since it was too cold and windy to work outside today I did stuff in the shop. I wanted to put the new blade on the H/V saw since the original broke. I turn it on to verify blade travel direction and shut it off and installed the blade. Hit the switch and the motor just hummed. I pulled the blade off and the motor would not start. After messing with it for a moment I felt the motor housing and it was slightly warm but I didn't see any smoke or smell anything.

I went out to check the gearbox and noticed the motor pully has slid up the shaft a little and was binding the belt. Loosed the motor tension bolt and removed the belt and the motor ran fine. I can hear the click of the centrifugal start switch when I shut it off so I think that is fine. Now I have to see if I can pull the pulley off without damaging it and see what the keyway and key look like as the set screw was not tight on the shaft and it looks like the pulley keyway is a little off from the shaft keyway.

I just didn't troubleshoot far enough and just thought it was the motor. Duh.

[pep]

Can't think of any electrical reason, changing a bade would have cause a related problem. Did you try to hand spin the blade? 

Off the top my head, I think it's dragging, rubbing, left out a spacer, if it has a spacer .
is it on the wrong side of the blade.

 H/V saw < can't get a metal picture of what you're working with?

Worked before the blade was changed, now not. Stick with what was last touched.

[goodfellow]

Unfortunately it could be any number of things DN. Best solution at this point is to do the two basic tests -- 1) without the belt on it does it start after you give the pulley a spin by hand -- or does it still feel locked up? 2) take it off, remove the end housing and look for abnormalities -- your nose is probably the best guide at this point to identify shorted components or field windings.

[DeadNutz]

Didn't troubleshoot far enough. The set screw came loose on the motor pulley and it slid up binding the belt. I'll pull the pulley off tomorrow and check everything.

Thanks for the help and I feel like an idiot for not checking the obvious. Motor is fine.

[DeadNutz]

Pulley came off easy with the trusty Proto puller. Keyways and key are fine and will polish the motor shaft and pulley bore tomorrow. The problem is that the set screw hole is not lined up exactly with the keyway and the cup point on the set screw is flattened on one side. I'm sure it is metric threads and I will figure that out tomorrow. I think maybe an oval point set screw would seat better but I don't know how hard it will be to buy just one of the right size if I can find one around here.

[bmwrd0]

Belt tension too high? Like Pep, not sure what an H/V saw is, so can't give too much advise. Horozontal/vertical? Does the tension change as saw is up or down?

[DeadNutz]

Belt tension too high? Like Pep, not sure what an H/V saw is, so can't give too much advise. Horozontal/vertical? Does the tension change as saw is up or down?

Belt tension is easy to adjust with a bolt with a thumbwheel on it and it was fine. Yes it is a 4x6 horizontal/vertical bandsaw and a Harbor Freight special. This one was made in 1991 and is one of the decent green Taiwan made ones. Tension doesn't change up or down I believe but I only use it down. The problem is the set screw contacting the key in the keyway at a slight angle due to the screw hole being slightly off-center.

[Matt_T]

Motor itself is probably fine but a bad cap will prevent it starting under load. So you might not be in the clear electrically speaking............

Re. the pulley Loctite 609 > set screws

[goodfellow]

Motor itself is probably fine but a bad cap will prevent it starting under load. So you might not be in the clear electrically speaking............

Re. the pulley Loctite 609 > set screws

It's probably just a cheap split-phase motor with a start winding

[Barks]

A problem after 29 years?  Check the warranty.

[GNAP]

Did you weld the pulley back on??

[DeadNutz]

A problem after 29 years?  Check the warranty.

And exchange it for a Chinese saw? No way. I bought it off a neighbor about 4-5 years ago and he had bought it new and only cut a few pieces of channel on it. I gave him $50 for it and the original blade was like new and I cut quite a bit of steel with it before the blade broke as it was worn out.

Did you weld the pulley back on??

I didn't weld it just used JB on it. No, the pulley is fine and will probably use a little Loctite on the screw like Matt_T said.

[GNAP]

A problem after 29 years?  Check the warranty.

And exchange it for a Chinese saw? No way. I bought it off a neighbor about 4-5 years ago and he had bought it new and only cut a few pieces of channel on it. I gave him $50 for it and the original blade was like new and I cut quite a bit of steel with it before the blade broke as it was worn out.

Did you weld the pulley back on??

I didn't weld it just used JB on it. No, the pulley is fine and will probably use a little Loctite on the screw like Matt_T said.

<sigh> remember nothing holds like a good cross-thread.........

[Matt_T]

I didn't weld it just used JB on it. No, the pulley is fine and will probably use a little Loctite on the screw like Matt_T said.

That ain't what I said. 609 is a bearing retainer not a threadlocker. Applied to the shaft it pretty much eliminates problems with finished bore pulleys and sprockets moving. Will require a little heat if you ever need to get it back off though.

[DeadNutz]

I didn't weld it just used JB on it. No, the pulley is fine and will probably use a little Loctite on the screw like Matt_T said.

That ain't what I said. 609 is a bearing retainer not a threadlocker. Applied to the shaft it pretty much eliminates problems with finished bore pulleys and sprockets moving. Will require a little heat if you ever need to get it back off though.

I did look it up earlier and 609 is for cylindrical fits so I did misinterpret what you said.