Author Topic: Where is the best place to start?  (Read 5411 times)

Offline m_fumich

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Where is the best place to start?
« on: January 20, 2019, 09:28:05 PM »
A buddy gave me a Hobart 140 MIG welder. I don’t have the stuff to use the gas but that’s not an issue. My problem is I don’t know how to weld. I don’t know enough to tell a good instructional video from a bad one. Can someone give me a recommendation? I also need a helmet that won’t break the bank. Any suggestions there?

Offline highland512

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Re: Where is the best place to start?
« Reply #1 on: January 23, 2019, 07:40:31 AM »
HF flash auto flash hood is $30-$40, you can also something in the same price range at lowes or HD.
https://www.harborfreight.com/standard-auto-darkening-welding-helmet-61611.html

You dont need gas, flux core wire will laydown a nice bead but.... Welding with gas will produce a better bead and I have found its easier to weld with as well.


I enjoy these weld.com videos. no bs or commercial
« Last Edit: January 23, 2019, 07:42:35 AM by highland512 »

Offline gtermini

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Re: Where is the best place to start?
« Reply #2 on: January 23, 2019, 10:15:58 AM »
DItto on Bob Moffatt. No BS and good technique.
All the wires run a little different. You will most likely end up with a roll of Lincoln NR211-MP (or Hobart 21B). It will like to run under 18V. You can figure wire speed by holding the trigger for 10 sec, measuring the wire, and multiplying by 6. After you get the hang of it, you'll be able to dial speed and voltage by feel/sound. The chart below is right off the Lincoln site.



I run a lot of fluxcore, but it's mostly larger wire, out of a suitcase feeder. Fluxcore is a lot more capable than most people give it credit for.

This is 1" plate welded with fluxcore. .068" NR203-MP at about 225A. Not even close to max capacity for that wire.


Fluxcore will have no problem wetting-in with correct settings


The biggest thing with fluxcore is to not let the arc leave the puddle. Move the puddle with you, or you'll get slag inclusions. Self shielded wire runs the opposite polarity of MIG hard wire with gas. You want it set up with the negative lead hooked to the feeder/gun for DC-. NR211 doesn't like to weld over any old slag, so clean between passes. You can trim the gas nozzle back to better see the contact tip, or run without it. It's nice to have it on to keep the dingle berries from funking up the gun diffuser/tip. Fluxocre also like more wire stickout from the tip to the work to give the flux inside time to preheat. Sometimes the puddle will become kind of hard to see with the slag floating. That usually is from letting the slag get ahead of the arc and muck up the puddle. Best is to stop, chip slag on the the puddle, then restart. Almost always use a drag technique, pulling the puddle along. Pushing won't get much penetration and lead to trapped slag under the bead.

Greyson

Offline muddy

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Re: Where is the best place to start?
« Reply #3 on: January 23, 2019, 07:21:39 PM »
Northern Tool has a noce beginners set. If you plan on laying down alot of beads I'd look in to a jacket as well.


https://m.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200620953_200620953



Welding tips and tricks
(Weldingtipsandtrick)

Is a good one to hes a little hard to follow if you don't speak the language.


Most of all practice practice practice

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk


Offline slip knot

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Re: Where is the best place to start?
« Reply #4 on: January 23, 2019, 10:03:53 PM »
That little machine has a pretty low duty cycle. I see that getting a lot of folks when trying to wire weld. its so easy to burn wire for minutes at a time and the machine will shut down on temps. smaller shorter welds work best with those.

Offline walrus

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Re: Where is the best place to start?
« Reply #5 on: January 27, 2019, 07:26:30 AM »
DItto on Bob Moffatt. No BS and good technique.
All the wires run a little different. You will most likely end up with a roll of Lincoln NR211-MP (or Hobart 21B). It will like to run under 18V. You can figure wire speed by holding the trigger for 10 sec, measuring the wire, and multiplying by 6. After you get the hang of it, you'll be able to dial speed and voltage by feel/sound. The chart below is right off the Lincoln site.



I run a lot of fluxcore, but it's mostly larger wire, out of a suitcase feeder. Fluxcore is a lot more capable than most people give it credit for.

This is 1" plate welded with fluxcore. .068" NR203-MP at about 225A. Not even close to max capacity for that wire.


Fluxcore will have no problem wetting-in with correct settings


The biggest thing with fluxcore is to not let the arc leave the puddle. Move the puddle with you, or you'll get slag inclusions. Self shielded wire runs the opposite polarity of MIG hard wire with gas. You want it set up with the negative lead hooked to the feeder/gun for DC-. NR211 doesn't like to weld over any old slag, so clean between passes. You can trim the gas nozzle back to better see the contact tip, or run without it. It's nice to have it on to keep the dingle berries from funking up the gun diffuser/tip. Fluxocre also like more wire stickout from the tip to the work to give the flux inside time to preheat. Sometimes the puddle will become kind of hard to see with the slag floating. That usually is from letting the slag get ahead of the arc and muck up the puddle. Best is to stop, chip slag on the the puddle, then restart. Almost always use a drag technique, pulling the puddle along. Pushing won't get much penetration and lead to trapped slag under the bead.

Greyson

I've been working on a project with a welder using a suitcase and fluxcore. It looked like 6 penny nails coming out of the gun.  It looked good when done. Cleanliness of the area being welded was key. He had to grind out some welds chasing oil or some contaminant.