VEHICLES > Bikes/Trikes/Choppers/Scooters & etc.
My Bicycle-- 1995 Specialized Hardrock Ultra 21-Gear, Wt~32lbs
bmwrd0:
Nice bike Gary. And you are right about getting out and getting in a good ride. It definitely a good thing. I was just bringing in one of mine for a freshen up to do the midwinter duties.
J.A.F.E.:
--- Quote from: lauver on December 29, 2018, 07:02:52 PM ---JAFE-- No kick stand. Bike is sitting on a 2.5 Ton jack stand. I think she'll hold. [snip]
--- End quote ---
I had thought it sorta looked like a stand and then I thought naaw. I should think it would hold.
lauver:
--- Quote from: bmwrd0 on December 29, 2018, 07:06:38 PM ---
Nice bike Gary. And you are right about getting out and getting in a good ride. It definitely a good thing. I was just bringing in one of mine for a freshen up to do the midwinter duties.
--- End quote ---
bmwrd0,
You bring up a good point-- annual maintenance is important and sometimes critical. I'm curious what your consist of.
Here's my annual ritual:
1) Wash entire bike with soap and water, blow dry with compressed air, then finish wiping down with a shop towel. While doing this step, inspect the entire bike carefully for cracks, dents, bends, lever and cable operation, loose fasteners, and anything out of adjustment. Correct any issues.
2) Lube the chain, gears sets, derailers, and pedals. I generally don't lube the cables. They typically stay dry, clean, and operate very smoothly. If they don't, it's time to replace them. For chains, gears, and derailers, I like to clean them with a tooth brush and "Finish Line Multi Degreaser", then wiped down with a paper towel. To relube, I use White Lighting Clean Ride" lube. Just put it on judiciously and let air dry. Your good to go for another year and your gears and chain will always look clean and rust free. Additionally your chain and gears will operate quietly and feel silky smooth. Good stuff.
3) Clean the brake pads and brake surface of the rims. Adjust the brakes if necessary. To clean the brake pads, I remove them and dress the friction surface with 220 sandpaper. This takes very little effort and removes all the glazed over rubber. As soon as I hit fresh soft rubber, I quit sanding. Just be sure to maintain the original angle on the pads. The wheel brake surface, especially with aluminum wheels, gets glazed just like the rubber pads. I usually use brake cleaner and a 3M scuff pad, then wipe with a paper towel. Cleaning the pads and the wheel friction surfaces usually gets the brakes working very effectively, with minimal lever pressure, and no noise or grabbing.
4) Inspect the tires carefully. Look for cracks in the side walls. If heavily cracked, it's time for new tires. Look for cracks, tears, punctures, cuts, or exposed casing, anywhere on the rolling surface. If these are found, it's time for new tires. Also, in my case, inspect the cleats on the upper sidewalls. If they are heavily worn, or some are missing, it's time for new tires. Last but not least, check your tire pressure. I usually do this every time I take the bike for a spin. If riding on pavement, I generally run 30-35psi. If going off-road I generally run 20-25psi depending on trail conditions. That's it, maybe two hours total time, and only one time a year.
For the record, I consider this ritual as quality time in the garage. If only cars, trucks, and motorcycles were this simple.
lauver:
Gang,
A small confession-- Although I have 21 gears to choose from, I seldom use more than 3 or 4 gears on any given outing.
When I go on a street run, I tend to use maybe 4 of the intermediate gears.
When I go on an off-road run, I tend to use about 3 of the lower gears.
When I take my dogs out for exercise, I tend to stay in 1 or 2 lower gears that keep my miniature poodles at a very brisk walk. I call it "dog cruising speed". They seem to be able to sustain this pace for extended periods of time and can cover a lot of ground. There are no rest stops on the dog runs except near the end, to allow for toileting. Then, we head for home, food, and water.
When I want something real interesting, I throw my bike in the back of my pickup and drive to various areas with little or no traffic. There is a pretty cool paved one lane fire road around Belton Lake that is pretty interesting. The only traffic on this road is hikers, dogs, and the occasional wild animal. I should also add that this road is unmaintained and sprinkled with hazards (i.e. cracks, pot holes, gravel washes, boulders, downed trees, wildlife, you name it). I tend to take this road pretty fast and loose. I find that this one road has done more to sharpen my riding skills than any other place I've ridden. But I like it. It's wild and always changing. Hell, the ride back is totally different than the ride out.
How about you other riders? Do you use all your available gears? Do you have set run types? If so, what are they?
stokester:
--- Quote from: lauver on January 03, 2019, 11:03:22 PM ---How about you other riders? Do you use all your available gears? Do you have set run types? If so, what are they?
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I've got a Klein Attitude mountain bike I bought from a shop that was closing back in about 2003 or 2004. Its got Shimano Deore LX brakes and XT derailleur set and 27 speeds with a Rock Shox front fork. It's my off-road bike and I've got a Jamis road bike for the asphalt which has taken me across Iowa three times during RAGBRAI. Both bikes have performed flawlessly over the past 15 years with only a few chain and brake pad replacements. Of course there was regular cleaning and lubing.
There are a few mountain bike single track trails in the area and I do enjoy the different experience from road riding. It only takes a 5 mile track over some hilly rough terrain to wear a rider out while the road bike takes more time and miles.
On most of my rides the big gear does not move off the center sprocket very often and usually only the center three or four gears on the cassette get slammed with any frequency.
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