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bonneyman:
And here's my latest "franken-light"! Still needs some finishing but far enough along to post pics.
This one is a no-name 18 volt light that I took a chance on that the LEDS were fine. Got it on half-off day (total $3.50), and a quick check at home proved they all lit. Was scrounging around trying to figure out a battery "pack", and settled upon one of those plastic drill index boxes. Made a great support base, was dirt cheap, and easy to swap batteries. Plus, the LED bulbs have such a low current draw that even well used 9v batteries still work fine! So I use fresh batteries in my other lights, and when the incan bulbs start going yellow, I can transfer them into the LED lights.

I come across pivot head flashlights all the time. Without the battery. Seems like folks who buy a line of cordless tools find out that after a couple of years the maker comes out with a new line of tools - and the batteries don't fit the older tools most of the time. When your batteries go bad or won't charge, the cost of a replacement is too high. So, people toss or donate the old tools.

Enter the flashlights. I can usually get them for a few bucks, and I've figured out a way to wire in 9 volt transistor batteries and get the lights working. Most of the time there's nothing wrong with them - just the battery went belly up. The old Makita stick battery lights were 9.6 volts and work fine on 9 volt transistor batteries. So I hook up 3 or 4 in parallel and get a useful life out of them. 18v are also easy - just two batteries in series. 12, 19.2, an 24 volt lights require some more work. Either a mixture of 9v and AA, or a stack of AA's. Real tough jobs one can always replace the bulb with a 9 or 18 volt variety.

bonneyman:
While doing some flashlight research (looking for schematics, parts lists, prices, etc.) I came across the brand of my latest franken light. Apparently made for Harbor Freight by Companion. Price $10. On=line reviews are 78% like and 22% not like. So I'm glad I didn't spend a whole lot of time modding it up. It'll work great banging around the truck. if the LEDs go I'll try and convert it to an 18 volt halogen or a single high output LED.

My parts resource:

https://ereplacementparts.com/

bonneyman:
Finally finished upgrading my Disston keyhole saw.

It had a hex bolt for securing the blade, but I changed that to a standard head screw. Figured a screwdriver would be more readily available on the job than a wrench. But it never worked out. Saw an ad for one on ebay, and it had a knurled knob screw. Set out to get one /make one. Took a 1/4-20 hex bolt with an attached washer, and ground 6 curved grooves in it with a rattail file. Makes it much easier to tighten and loosen with my fingers than a regular bolt. While I was at it, I fashioned a sheetrock saw blade out of a used Sawzall blade. Now I can use it with the stored short hacksaw blade or as a sheetrock saw. Probably will store all the pieces in a snap cover sunglasses holder.

pep:



That's a good one ......


--- Quote from: bonneyman on December 12, 2021, 04:25:35 PM ---Had this ratcheting screwdriver with a gearless drive. Very smooth, comfy handle, large bit storage capacity - but no end cap. Took it to Ace and searched the irrigation section - found a suitable poly fitting that would screw into the end. Not perfect, as it will bind after about 4 threads. But close enough! Took a chair leg cap and cut and fit it to the fitting. Almost looks factory! And now I can use the thing.

--- End quote ---

bonneyman:
Came across this electrical plug/adaptor, figured it was (or could be modified) for use as an extension cord lock. You all know how frustrating it is to be dragging a 100' extension cord and right before you get to where you need it it unplugs for the source cord. they make several variations of such extension cord "locks" so I thought I'd try and fab one. Here's how it started out, cost me 50 cents.
Finished results soon.

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