Author Topic: Caring for body hammers and dollies --  (Read 9105 times)

Offline goodfellow

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Caring for body hammers and dollies --
« on: September 03, 2018, 03:04:24 PM »
I keep two sets of basic body tools -- a beater set and a finishing set. The beater tools are inexpensive cast steel and cast iron sets that I've collected over the years and are used exclusively to rough out panels. These tools get dinged and beat on most of the time. I also keep a second set of highly polished hammers and dollies that are quite expensive quality steel forged items. These tools are used exclusively for finishing work on bare metal panels. They have no dings whatsoever and I keep them oiled and clean.

The "beater" section of my toolbox -- low cost hammers and dollies for roughing work



Just a few of my favorite "beater" hammers that get used pretty much on every job I do. They have rough anvil faces and only get "dressed" every few years, but they get the job done. I like these hammers and use them a LOT.



Here are my finishing dolly sets -- yes there are a few Chinese dollies in there (the red colored items), but I put a high polish on these steel forgings and they serve a distinct purpose. They are significantly smaller in size compared to my other dollies so they work better in tight spaces.



The finishing hammer anvils are fully polished



Well, it turns out my buddy grabbed the wrong batch of tools to do some beater work on his MGB. This "used" to be a quality forged steel heel dolly -- now look at it.





Those dings will transfer directly to a bare metal panel -- especially if it's aluminum. This beater vs. finishing tool aspect wasn't known to my friend when he grabbed the tools. He just opened a drawer and grabbed tools. Luckily he didn't grab a finishing hammer in the process.

So, now I'm separating all the finishing body tools in their own drawer and will keep the tools wrapped up in their own protective pouch -- tube socks!!! I urge all of you to do the same. Keep them separate and protected. Cut one tube sock in half and it will make two excellent pouches.










Offline Cruiser808

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Re: Caring for body hammers and dollies --
« Reply #1 on: September 03, 2018, 04:46:05 PM »
Great advise GF. As I recall from the old GG site, you had an awesome set of vintage Craftsman body hammers and dollies. I was so impressed, I grabbed some on eBay. Do you still have that sweet set?

Offline goodfellow

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Re: Caring for body hammers and dollies --
« Reply #2 on: September 03, 2018, 06:00:13 PM »
Great advise GF. As I recall from the old GG site, you had an awesome set of vintage Craftsman body hammers and dollies. I was so impressed, I grabbed some on eBay. Do you still have that sweet set?

Yes, that is my finishing set that I only use for clean sheet metal finishing. The old and import stuff sees the dirty work. 

Offline fatfillup

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Re: Caring for body hammers and dollies --
« Reply #3 on: September 05, 2018, 09:12:17 AM »
Plus the tube socks will keep the dollies warm in the cold garage :)

Thanks for the info on good vs beater tools.  I had pretty much surmised that from the tools I had handled over the years but you put it very succinctly.

After typing succinctly (incorrectly) I decided to check the definition " in a brief and clearly expressed manner."  How about that for a succinct definition :D

Offline goodfellow

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Re: Caring for body hammers and dollies --
« Reply #4 on: September 05, 2018, 09:22:05 AM »
Plus the tube socks will keep the dollies warm in the cold garage :)

Thanks for the info on good vs beater tools.  I had pretty much surmised that from the tools I had handled over the years but you put it very succinctly.

After typing succinctly (incorrectly) I decided to check the definition " in a brief and clearly expressed manner."  How about that for a succinct definition :D

LOL --- very good point Phil.

I forgot to mention that although the socks keep the dollies protected from damage, the tools do need to be oiled very well. Cotton attracts an holds moisture and will cause the surfaces to rust more quickly unless the surfaces are liberally coated in WD40 or some other type of lubricant.

Sorry, forgot to mention this ahead of time -- my bad!!  ???