Author Topic: Fuse Block Options  (Read 2310 times)

Offline Der Bugmeister

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Fuse Block Options
« on: October 30, 2020, 12:31:07 AM »
tldr: What do you use for fuse blocks when wiring a custom car and don't want to use the stock block? Doing something like my '57 Beetle, would you replace all with blade style fuses, or cartridge style?

I know there are some talented car builders in this crowd...I'm updating the wiring in my '57 Beetle.  The original fuse block has a whopping 4 fuses (it ain't a complicated car, after all).  I've added other electrical requirements including stereo, gauges, line-loc, cigarette lighter (for accessory plugin), etc.  The lighter will be replaced with a USB charging port.

I wasn't as edurcated back when I built the car (pre-internet) and my solution then was to add an el-cheapo 6 fuse block mounted in a rather kludgy method while retaining the original block, or at least the 3 working terminals, for the original wiring.

It's time to fix some of these earlier sins and clean up the wiring and figure it's time to drop the original block altogether, feeding everything through a cleaner looking solution than what's in there now.

Offline Lookin4_67GalaxieConv

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Re: Fuse Block Options
« Reply #1 on: October 30, 2020, 05:36:44 AM »
Buggy, I can't help you with your question, but I have to point out you're the first person I've ever seen refer to the word "kludgy". My wife says that once in awhile and I always tease her that she made it up.   :))
boop/bop/beep

Offline oldnslo

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Re: Fuse Block Options
« Reply #2 on: October 30, 2020, 08:04:21 AM »
It's a style question far more than a functional one. They both offer protection.

Given it's a vintage vehicle, I'd opt for the OE fuse holder to remain in place, and have separate fuses for the add on devices. Those items would be suited fine for the blade fuses, and locate them near the device being protected.

You mentioned its a custom ride. Based on that route, I'd pivot, and go for an updated blade style fuse holder and locate that as you see fit, perhaps even in a similar mounting position/location (trunk floor) that the bug comes with stock. Then, having a laminate fuse chart in the cubby hole, would help you, or the next owner on the purpose of each fuse.

A third option, is the later model bug fuse holder with many more spots. Those took 8 or 16amp ceramic fuses, and while not pretty, they were functional. The block also came with a plastic window for protection from bumping from the underside of the trunk. That option might require some metal work to fit.

Kludgy. That was a descriptor I used often, but it's fading fast.

Offline pep

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1776 ................... what happened!

Offline J.A.F.E.

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Re: Fuse Block Options
« Reply #4 on: October 30, 2020, 10:46:36 AM »
I personally would go with a later bug fuse box. It's original enough to look stock and there are all separate circuits - even each headlight is on it's own fuse if you use the later harness.

Four is not too bad. My TR6 has three fuses and the Spitfire 2 of George Lucases finest.
People who confuse etymology and entomology bug me in ways I can’t put into words.

Offline Matt_T

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Re: Fuse Block Options
« Reply #5 on: October 30, 2020, 11:47:38 AM »
Four is not too bad. My TR6 has three fuses and the Spitfire 2 of George Lucases finest.

 :017:

Offline Der Bugmeister

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Re: Fuse Block Options
« Reply #6 on: October 30, 2020, 11:52:22 AM »
I sometimes have a thing for oddball words like kludgy.  Scads.  (I have scads of VW fuse holders). Some are made up.  This wiring is a disastrophe.  Sounds convincing when you casually throw it into a conversation.   :))

A later model Bug fuse block could be an option, although they mount into a hole cut in the underside of the dash.  Convenient access to the fuses from the passenger compartment, but part of my philosophy with this car is to avoid cutting or drilling any non-essential holes to facilitate possible restoration to a more stock configuration at some point.  Bolt on parts are a different matter - the car is definitely not stock so maintaining the appearance on something like this isn't critical.

The OEM block in the car now has a busted terminal that I worked around years ago.  I have other matching OEM I can replace it with, but it strikes me as being a sleeker solution to have everything running through one unit.  The ones in the links Pep posted are pretty much what I've been looking at, just need to find one locally...hopefully today.  I wasn't sure if there was a specific "go to" style that custom builders preferred.

Offline Der Bugmeister

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Re: Fuse Block Options
« Reply #7 on: October 30, 2020, 11:53:01 AM »
Four is not too bad. My TR6 has three fuses and the Spitfire 2 of George Lucases finest.

 :017:

George was better at making movies than designing automotive electrical systems.

Offline Matt_T

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Re: Fuse Block Options
« Reply #8 on: October 30, 2020, 01:31:14 PM »
Four is not too bad. My TR6 has three fuses and the Spitfire 2 of George Lucases finest.

 :017:

George was better at making movies than designing automotive electrical systems.

Magic smoke looks better on the big screen than it does in your car :lol_hitting:
« Last Edit: October 30, 2020, 01:37:40 PM by Matt_T »

Offline oldnslo

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Re: Fuse Block Options
« Reply #9 on: October 30, 2020, 03:17:49 PM »
I believe we are talking about Joseph Lucas are we not?

Prince of Darkness?  ;)


Offline J.A.F.E.

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Re: Fuse Block Options
« Reply #10 on: October 30, 2020, 06:19:02 PM »
People who confuse etymology and entomology bug me in ways I can’t put into words.

Offline slip knot

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Re: Fuse Block Options
« Reply #11 on: October 30, 2020, 07:34:44 PM »
Lucas electric :38:  I got a lucas starter on an international tractor that is a royal PITA. Seems like every time it gets cold I get the call. "it wont start". I swear a rope start would be a better option. :lol_hitting:

Offline Der Bugmeister

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Re: Fuse Block Options
« Reply #12 on: October 30, 2020, 08:30:14 PM »
Well, after running around the various jobbers I have to say I'm kinda surprised/disappointed.  The only blocks I was able to find in store were 6 circuit blades that used a single power in line and don't support switched circuits.  I guess I'll use the aftermarket one already in the car and move all my circuits through it for now.