What is the correct way to pull THIS Briggs flywheel?

[m_fumich]

As you can see, the holes on the flywheel are not threaded. The flywheel says “Holes for pulling wheel” and you can see the arrow pointing at the hole. So what do I do now?






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[lostmind]

Run a tap in there and cut threads.

[m_fumich]

I’ll have to buy a tap. I’ve never owned a set before or even a single tap.


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[kwoswalt99]

Just give her a whack with the ol brass hammer.

[walrus]

Couple prybars under the flywheel and then give the crank a whack

[Elroy]

Couple prybars under the flywheel and then give the crank a whack

This has worked a few times for Elroy. You don't want to pry against the case too hard as you could crack it.

The worst flywheel Elroy ever had to remove was on a Tecumseh. Elroy used a large 3 jaw puller and recall being able to just sneak a jaw under the outer lip flywheel in three spots but the puller wasn't on real square. The more pressure on the screw and the more the puller wanted to lay over because it was cockeyed. Any way Elroy got a touch and heated the flywheel while there was a fair amount of tension on the puller. It wouldn't move until Elroy tapped around the crank with a small ball peen. It only took like two taps and it jumped off the crank with parts flying all over the place.


Short and sweet...............That Tecumseh was a real bitch.

Other times they come off fairly easy with out too much fuss. You just got work it off of there.

Elroy trusts you're aware that wheel is mounted on a taper journal

[m_fumich]

Fortunately, getting the flywheel off wasn’t essential so I left it alone. This is on a push mower my neighbor gave me. It’s been sitting for two years. He said it just wouldn’t start one day and someone gave him another mower so he never messed with it. I found it had an oil leak from 3 of the sump bolts falling out and a 4th one ready to drop. He said it wasn’t leaking the last time he used it. I found the blade was bent beyond repair. I cleaned the carb (it wasn’t dirty), replaced the missing bolts, put Loctite on all the sump bolts, and cleaned up the engine and the mower deck. After getting everything back together, I put some oil in it and let it sit for 30 min to see if it was still going to leak. It did not. I topped off the tank and yanked on the cord. It coughed out some smoke on the 3rd pull. Another 2 pulls and it’s purring like a kitten.

I was gonna pull the flywheel just to clean it up but I knew it wasn’t in such shape that it absolutely had to come off. Besides, it’s easy to get to if needed. If I ever have to pull that flywheel, I’ll tap those holes so I can use the puller.

So now I have a Murray 500E push mower for the price of a new blade, a spark plug (which I haven’t installed), and a can of carb cleaner. The gates to my dog pens are too small to get my rider through and the grass in the pens is pretty tall. Now I have a push mower to do the job.


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[Elroy]

I found the blade was bent beyond repair.

Buy a lottery ticket because you're lucky. Bent blades typically shear the flywheel key.

[m_fumich]

Buy a lottery ticket because you're lucky. Bent blades typically shear the flywheel key.

Buy even that is an easy fix. I’m ecstatic to get a mower for $20 in parts. It was built in 2013 and wasn’t used for the last 2 years. I just wish I had videoed the whole thing. It would have made a good YouTube video.


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[daves_not_here]

I found the blade was bent beyond repair.

Buy a lottery ticket because you're lucky. Bent blades typically shear the flywheel key.

As intended - better to shear the key than bend the crank.

We sold many a flywheel key in my several years in Sears parts.

[m_fumich]

Flywheel keys are the type of thing that if you ever have to buy ONE, you buy a half dozen so you’ll have them if you ever need them.


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[ken w.]

I smack them with a hammer and they usually come right off.  Flywheel keys are cheap on Ebay.