Author Topic: Oliver 1650  (Read 42382 times)

Offline highland512

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Re: Oliver 1650
« Reply #30 on: May 06, 2020, 11:12:45 AM »
I called the Floyd County Museum in Charles City Iowa, they hold all of records from the Oliver company and can look up and send you the build sheet for your tractor for a small fee. I contacted them and gave them my serial #.

Surprisingly my serial number should be for a 1967 but they say my number is above the cut off for 1967 but below 1968.........huh. The block has a hand stamped date of 9-1967, and the serial # cast into the block falls into the 1967 dates. I am wondering if someone put 1650 decals on a 1550?? I am pretty sure they physically the same size.   

Offline highland512

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Re: Oliver 1650
« Reply #31 on: May 08, 2020, 07:31:12 AM »
This is now the Oliver 1550 thread. The serial number returned to a 1550, there is only a 10 hp difference between the two. Good news is the rod bearings I already ordered and received will work (I hope). I think at some point in time someone rebuilt this machine and put a larger than stock sleeve kit in and decided it needed 1650 decals on the side

Offline oldnslo

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Re: Oliver 1650
« Reply #32 on: May 08, 2020, 06:54:11 PM »
If you really want to have folks turn their heads, slap a Big Bud decal on that hood.

Offline slip knot

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Re: Oliver 1650
« Reply #33 on: May 08, 2020, 09:11:10 PM »
I've been known to badge one with whatever I have handy :051bye: :051bye: I got a bunch of sticker packages on sale at TSC for $5 each some time ago. All of them are Ford 800 powermasters. :lol_hitting:

I've got a Ford 861 with the pistons marked STD but they're .060 oversized for the 172 block. Took me a while to figure that one out. Had to figure out how to read an inside mic again. :017:

Offline muddy

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Re: Oliver 1650
« Reply #34 on: May 09, 2020, 08:37:41 PM »
You could turbo it, and put 1950-T decals on....see how long it takes and how many notice.

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Offline highland512

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Re: Oliver 1650
« Reply #35 on: May 11, 2020, 12:14:51 PM »
I think blackstone does make a kit for it  :cool2:

Offline highland512

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Re: Oliver 1650
« Reply #36 on: May 13, 2020, 08:16:28 AM »
I received my information back from the Floyd County Museum in Charles City Iowa, very cool and well worth the $30 they charged.

It rolled of the assembly line 10/11/67 and was shipped 10/12/67 to Minster OH which is about a 35 min away. This was a VERY basic tractor, they supplied me with an order form that you used to spec out your tractor. This 1550 only had 4 options, bigger rear rubber, bigger front rubber, two wheel narrow front end,and the large pre-cleaner for the intake. Base MSRP was $5,279.00, as built price was $5,489.00. I also learned that the block has been swapped out on this tractor and the original engine serial# and what I have do not match, I would bet this is when the bigger sleeves and new decals where applied.

Some interesting $ amount for options where:
diesel-$700
Wide front adjustable- $175
rear wheel weights-$47
rubber bushing seat with upholstery-$35

Dont you wish you could buy a new 54hp tractor today for $5,300?

Offline highland512

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Re: Oliver 1650
« Reply #37 on: September 06, 2020, 10:50:17 PM »
Started reassembly today. The crank and pistons are installed minus one piston. I discovered a bad piston ring during assembly and will have to order one Monday.


Clearances all checked out well with in spec using the old mains. I looked all over the web and made several phone calls and couldn’t find mains to work with the crank since it’s .003 under. The motor shop seemed confident the old bearings will be fine.



Pistons all in (minus #3). Oliver did a good job with stamping caps and rods with pair ID and hole number. The rod bearings where sourced from flebay and worked great.

It was a good learning opportunity for my son for reading numbers and how things go together. He really loved to watch the assembly turning in the block and seeing the parts work together. Next up is the cam and tappets, oil pump, and oil pickup.

Offline jabberwoki

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Re: Oliver 1650
« Reply #38 on: September 06, 2020, 10:53:00 PM »
Nice I love it...looking forward to the vid on startup day!
Is the need enough? Or does the want suffice?

Offline Rural53

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Re: Oliver 1650
« Reply #39 on: September 07, 2020, 01:35:01 AM »
I received my information back from the Floyd County Museum in Charles City Iowa, very cool and well worth the $30 they charged.

It rolled of the assembly line 10/11/67...
Dont you wish you could buy a new 54hp tractor today for $5,300?

About $41k in today's dollars.

Offline highland512

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Re: Oliver 1650
« Reply #40 on: September 08, 2020, 03:31:47 PM »
Tappets and cam installed yesterday. Whats driving me crazy is the service manual (which is a copy of an original Oliver publication), it tells you how how the cam gear and crank gear align but not how the crank should be positioned. I am assuming cylinder #1 need to be top dead center but I have not confirmed this, still researching. Carb rebuild kit and a new ring are on the way. 

Offline muddy

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Re: Oliver 1650
« Reply #41 on: September 08, 2020, 09:27:58 PM »


Tappets and cam installed yesterday. Whats driving me crazy is the service manual (which is a copy of an original Oliver publication), it tells you how how the cam gear and crank gear align but not how the crank should be positioned. I am assuming cylinder #1 need to be top dead center but I have not confirmed this, still researching. Carb rebuild kit and a new ring are on the way.

Usually timing is done with crank at #1 TDC.

Really should be only one way for everything to go together.

Been awhile since I had the front end of a waukesha apart. Id have to study it to double check.

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Offline highland512

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Re: Oliver 1650
« Reply #42 on: September 08, 2020, 10:05:45 PM »


Tappets and cam installed yesterday. Whats driving me crazy is the service manual (which is a copy of an original Oliver publication), it tells you how how the cam gear and crank gear align but not how the crank should be positioned. I am assuming cylinder #1 need to be top dead center but I have not confirmed this, still researching. Carb rebuild kit and a new ring are on the way.

Usually timing is done with crank at #1 TDC.

Really should be only one way for everything to go together.

Been awhile since I had the front end of a waukesha apart. Id have to study it to double check.

Sent from my E6910 using Tapatalk
That’s what I figured as well, #1 is at TDC now. If I have the crank at TDC on #1 and the crank “c” and the cam “c” aligned is there not a chance that the cam could be 180* out of time?

I plan on calling Mabach tomorrow, I need to order some steering gear seals anyways.

Offline Matt_T

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Re: Oliver 1650
« Reply #43 on: September 09, 2020, 07:53:34 AM »
That’s what I figured as well, #1 is at TDC now. If I have the crank at TDC on #1 and the crank “c” and the cam “c” aligned is there not a chance that the cam could be 180* out of time?

It's two turns of the crank for one turn of the cam so you really can't get the cam 180* off. Rotate the crank 360* back to TDC and the cam turns 180* from TDC compression to TDC exhaust.

Offline highland512

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Re: Oliver 1650
« Reply #44 on: September 14, 2020, 07:47:54 AM »
I talked to a couple different oliver guys over the weekend and they both said to get #1 at TDC and align the C marks, good deal already got that done.

Oil pump and distributer are installed, what a pain. The distributer is driven off the oil pump and can only be installed one way, I only had the oil pump and distributer off about 20 times each but the parts all line up now. Im ready to bolt on the pan and set the head on, hopefully this week.