Don't grease disc brake pads and shims --

[goodfellow]

One of the great debates within the repair community. To grease or not to grease ---- I was taught to never grease disc pad alignment slots and the tops of shims, because the grease attracts grit and dirt and makes the pad stick on it's mount.

Rainman Ray just addressed this issue quite eloquently

[pep]

I don't use grease also, factory doesn't use grease? And a good enough reason for myself.

[slip knot]

Always enjoyed RMRays videos. Looks like he's got his shop set up nicer since I last watched.

I've never been a big fan of greasing brake components but I will liberally dose them with the silicone disc brake quiet goop. Red seems to work better than the orange goop.

[john k]

 Enjoy reading Rainmans site, he is a good mechanic.  But he is in Florida where the roads don't get calcium and salt 4-6 months of the year.  He has mentioned several times how evident the rust is underneath northern vehicles brought to him.  If the caliper slides or pins are rusty, I always polished them, then they got a very light rub of some lube.  Had to drive the slides out of too many Ford brakes,  seen too many calipers stuck from rust with only one brake pad showing wear.  On drum brakes the rub points where the shoes contacted the backing plated were buffed and lubed.  Seen too many backing plates worn deeply, which makes for a funny braking noise.  The slides on many cars have rubber boots around them which is fine,  but when the boots tear, they can and often do rust.  The calipers have to move or disc brakes just don't do the job.  Just my 2 cents, repaired cars for money, in the snow belt, for about 40 years.

[stokester]

First I've seen of his videos.  Makes a compelling case for not using any lube.

I've always removed, cleaned and lubed the slide pins with the proper silicone lubricant and have always wiped a bit on the pads sliding surfaces.  To my memory it is how I was taught and its always stuck with me but "I've always done it this way and have never had a problem" reasoning does not mean very much.

I too regard the environmental conditions as a very important factor.  During my automotive work here we would periodically get vehicles that had been in the northeast and New England area usually brought in by military members.  It was immediately apparent as soon as it was lifted and we walked under the vehicle.  The salt and sand caused all kinds of damage and extra work as frozen and broken bolts had to be removed and brake lines rusted through.

[pep]

 You make a good point right there, I have read more than once. About brake lines failing in that type of environment.

So we live in the world we live. One size does in fact does not & never will fit all.

Enjoy reading Rainmans site, he is a good mechanic.  But he is in Florida where the roads don't get calcium and salt 4-6 months of the year.  He has mentioned several times how evident the rust is underneath northern vehicles brought to him.  If the caliper slides or pins are rusty, I always polished them, then they got a very light rub of some lube.  Had to drive the slides out of too many Ford brakes,  seen too many calipers stuck from rust with only one brake pad showing wear.  On drum brakes the rub points where the shoes contacted the backing plated were buffed and lubed.  Seen too many backing plates worn deeply, which makes for a funny braking noise.  The slides on many cars have rubber boots around them which is fine,  but when the boots tear, they can and often do rust.  The calipers have to move or disc brakes just don't do the job.  Just my 2 cents, repaired cars for money, in the snow belt, for about 40 years.