Well, all tight and leak free with the gauge set, hoses, torch, and tanks.
No more alarms from the CO monitor.
My as yet untested theory is the quench oil is off-gassing something the CO monitor (and Mrs. Torqueman!) objects to.
I'll see if the theory holds up tomorrow.
BTW - this steel blackening is not as straight forward as I thought it would be, from watching a couple of YouTube vids and reading 2 or 3 Google articles.
Small nuts, bolts, and washers are straight forward. Use enough heat OA or propane, to get object orange-cherry red and drop it into oil. I use a 'double boiler' method - 1 qt of oil in a ss restaurant prep pan, sitting in a bath of cool water nested in a larger ss prep pain. Even so, the oil/fumes may catch fire.
Larger objects, like spark arrestors, and eye shield brackets need a lot of heat - OA [MAPP ?] and even a rose bud torch might help to keep object evenly heated until dropping in the oil.
It took 2 or 3 times for some larger object to come out with an even finish.
The finish depends upon how the part was de-rusted - wire wheeling leaves a gloss like finished surface, media blasting leaves a flat like finish.
The tool used to hold the part in the flame should not be a favorite - the heat/flames do not discriminate between a bolt or the tips of your Channellock needle nose pliers.
I might experiment with cold blueing on another project. Entry price seems a bit high, but with the $$ I spent on an adapter for the gauge set to fit the B tank, spark arresters, new cart (optional, but the old one weighs 55# and is a brick s house), bottle of Acetylene ....
Also, it is COLD blueing. I wouldn't be outside in >90* with flaming hot oil trying to make me the 4th of July BBQ!
Pictures tomorrow of the blackend steel parts.